Once upon a time...in Copenhagen

From marinated herring to freshly caught lobster, from spicy Thai curries to traditional frikadeller (Danish meatballs), from sushi to smørrebrød...the last few years have seen a breathtaking range of inventive new restaurants opening up, transforming Copenhagen into a gourmet destination. In 2004, The Michelin Guide duly awarded no fewer than ten of Copenhagen's restaurants with Michelin stars and a meal will not necessarily break the bank.

The majority of Copenhagen's restaurants, whether expensive or cheap, have one thing in common: they appreciate that a great evening out requires not just good food, but also stylish surroundings and a cosy atmosphere, two things that this design-conscious city and the Danes, experts on cosiness, do best of all.

Copenhagen's cafés and bars, many found in cellars or in picturesque historical buildings, also serve everything from gourmet food to Danish traditional dishes, usually at reasonable prices. Almost all cafés and bars serve alcohol and food (brunch with delicious Danish pastries is popular), and most stay open late, with some transforming into clubs with DJs playing on weekend nights.

Should you feel a bit peckish in the middle of the afternoon, then opt for a Danish favourite: røde pølser (a bright red Danish hotdog), bought from any street vendor along the main shopping streets.

Luckily, walking off your meals is not that hard. Copenhagen city council has banned supermarkets from taking over traditional small shops. As a result, most of the shopping streets (all within easy walking distance) can still pride themselves on skills and designs you'll find nowhere else: from the goldsmith specialised in working amber (a skill dating back to the Vikings) to shops selling comfy duck-down duvets to stores with Danish design furniture.

Start off by wandering down the Strøget (the main pedestrian shopping street), exploring the occasional vaulted passageways and adjacent streets. Bright and sunny, Gråbrødretorv is a picturesque little square, perfect to stop for a drink in summer. Close by is Pistolstræde, a charming street lined with 18th century houses and delightful shops. Further to the west, the university district offers a lively mixed bag of places where chic boutiques rub shoulders with student cafes.
Worth a visit for its delicious hot chocolate alone (served with whipped cream) is La Glace. Located just off Strøget, La Glace has been tempting passers by with its sensational cakes since 1870. The oldest konditori in Denmark, this cake shop has become a tradition for many Copenhagen families - grandparents visit with their grandchildren, just as they did with their parents when they were young! Take home some of their kransekage, the traditional Danish sweet marzipan bread.

Copenhagen boasts a magical place, the Tivoli gardens, ideally discovered at dusk when its 110,000 flower bulbs and Chinese lanterns hanging from the trees create a romantic glow. These flower gardens, located between City Hall Square (Rådhuspladsen) and the central station (Hovedbanegården), are one of the world's oldest amusement parks, inaugurated in 1843. 100,000 square yards large, they are also amongst Denmark's most visited tourist attractions with more than 3 million visitors a year. With its roller-coasters, lake, Chinese and Persian palaces, haunted house, dodgems, Tivoli attracts young and old alike.

From Rubinstein to Rostropovitch, most of the great 20th century soloists have performed in the Tivoli concert hall which also serves as a cinema. Here you can watch silent film masterpieces, while the film music is played by a real symphony orchestra. For a meal after a show, Tivoli boasts many international restaurants.