Holidays and football in Klagenfurt (Austria)
Austria, Klagenfurt
2008-05-15

By Éric Boucher
In June, the capital of Carinthia – the southernmost region in Austria – is hosting three UEFA matches. A chance to discover a still intact heritage, idyllic landscapes and numerous opportunities to relax. Because Klagenfurt merits more than just a weekend of football.
“In this precarious, insecure world, Klagenfurt is a haven of happiness and peace for me,” French-American author Julien Green once declared.
 
And indeed, to travellers passing through, the little capital of Carinthia seems sleepy and unchanging. A situation that the authorities of Carinthia certainly expect to change by hosting three UEFA matches – Julien Green must be turning in his grave.
 
A new stadium, rearrangement of the town’s main square, works everywhere… Klagenfurt’s 92,000 inhabitants are pulling out all the stops to get ready to welcome 360,000 visitors in one month – in other words, as many as they usually have in a year.
 
Let’s hope that the small provincial town doesn’t lose its soul in all this, since Klagenfurt merits much more than a weekend of football.


A few facts

- Klagenfurt is in the centre of the Alpe-Adria region that encompasses Slovenia, the Austrian provinces of Carinthia and Styria, and the Italian regions of Friuli-Venezia Giulia.
 
- Klagenfurt is 90 km from Ljubljana, 140 km from Zagreb and 175 km from Trieste.
 
- The local economy relies mainly on tourism.

The dragon
© E. Boucher/ViaMichelin

A pure Renaissance gem

 
 
With its façades in shades of yellow, ochre and rose, the historic centre is devoured like an Italian ice cream. It can easily be covered on foot in 30 to 40 minutes (it is an entirely pedestrian precinct), but it is delightful: an extremely well-preserved complex of great architectural unity.
 
This small masterpiece is the result of a disaster: the town was completely razed to the ground by an earthquake and fire in the 16th century, and rebuilt in Renaissance style by Italian architects. The result is grid pattern town planning and over 50 arcaded courtyards with a very Mediterranean feel, many of them open to the public.
 
At the heart of this new town is Neuer Platz, a large rectangular square where most of the festivities during the three UEFA matches will take place. Since 1593, an enormous dragon made of schist has occupied its centre; legend has it that the town was founded after the monster that haunted the region was slain. It is now the symbol of the town.

The Trinity Column
© E. Boucher/ViaMichelin

 
The other statue with a haughty bearing is of none other than Empress Maria Theresa, and dates from 1873. At the west side of the square, the Rathaus (town hall) has watched over the destiny of the town since 1580; this is where you will find the Tourist Office.
 
Boasting cafes and shops, it is nevertheless on Alter Platz, on the site of the old mediaeval square, that the locals come in search of a little liveliness. It is lined with beautiful houses and colourful palaces, including the old Rathaus (1600).
 
The Trinity Column, erected in 1689, commemorates the great plague of 1679. Later on, a cross dominating a crescent was added to the top of it to recall the victory of the Viennese over the Turks.
 
With its terraces and palm trees reinforcing the southern character, the Alterplatz is the ideal place to have a break and enjoy an ice cream or cappuccino.
 
For an overall view of the town, you will have to climb the 222 steps of the bell tower of the parish church of St. Egyd (1692), which rises to a height of 97 m.
 
The interior presents a fine Baroque decor, but French tourists, above all, will be surprised to find here the tomb of Académie française member Julien Green, who died in Paris in 1998.

Julien Green, the pilgrim of Klagenfurt

Metaphysical quest, obsession with evil, troubled homosexuality and deep-seated faith are a few of the ingredients that inform the work of Julien Green. The writer discovered Klagenfurt in 1990, when his play, L’automate, was being performed here, and fell in love with the place.
In the twilight of his life, he expressed the wish to be buried in the church of Andrésy (Yvelines) with his adopted son Jean-Éric. The French church refused, but the parish church of Klagenfurt granted him this privilege.


© E. Boucher/ViaMichelin

 
 
The main must-see monument is the Landaus (1590), an impressive building recognisable by its two towers and arcaded courtyard.
 
The seat of the government of Carinthia is particularly remarkable for its Groβer Wappensaal, a state room whose walls are adorned with 665 coats of arms and the ceiling with a magnificent trompe l’oeil fresco. The other interesting feature of the Landhaus, and no mean one at that, is that here you can sample traditional cuisine at the restaurant that occupies the ground floor, and make the most of a beautiful terrace between Italian-style arcades.
 
You will find it harder to spot the St Peter and Paul Cathedral (Dom), set in a complex of modern, rather uninteresting buildings. The Baroque-style interior is dripping with marble, stucco and gilding and is really worth a look.
 
Also push on as far as the outskirts of the old town to admire the Jugendstil (Art Nouveau) façade of the Municipal Theatre (1910).


© E. Boucher/ViaMichelin

 
Musil-Haus
The house where one of the most important writers of the 20th century was born stands opposite the station, 5 minutes from the fan zone that will be set up on the site of the Exhibition Centre for the UEFA matches.
 
Robert Musil spent only the first year of his life in this house, but this is the only museum that is dedicated to him. Here you will find a number of personal items: manuscripts, his typewriter, original editions of his works, clothes, his death mask, etc.
 
Let’s not forget that the very sporty Musil discovered the technique of the crawl when holidaying on the shores of Lake Wörthersee, and subsequently devoted intensive training to this stroke.
 
The Musil-Haus is also a university institute and literature research centre, whose members include Peter Handke. The author of The Goalie’s Anxiety at the Penalty Kick was in fact born in Griffen, a couple of miles from Klagenfurt.


© E. Boucher/ViaMichelin

The warmest alpine lake in Europe

 
In the summer months most Austrian, Italian and German tourists who go to Klagenfurt don’t go there for its heritage but for its lake: Wörthersee.
 
Following the First World War, the Austrians having lost Trieste – their only opening onto the sea – Lake Wörthersee became their Riviera, as it were. But this negative explanation does not take into account the specific features of this charming alpine lake, which some Italian holidaymakers seem to prefer to the Adriatic.
 
Surrounded by gentle hills with, in the background, a few peaks over 2,000 metres high, Lake Wörthersee (19 km long and 85 m deep) takes on beautiful turquoise colours in summer, beneath an Italian sky.
 
The sunshine is such (33°) that the water temperature is generally between 25 and 28°. What more could you want!


© E. Boucher/ViaMichelin

 
It’s hard to imagine that in winter, when the temperature generally falls to between minus 15 and minus 20°, it is, on the other hand, not rare for Lake Wörthersee to be completely frozen over – to the great delight of skaters.
 
A long resort tradition means that the shores of the lake have good facilities: beaches, campsites, restaurants, hotels and marinas, but without excessive urban development and with constant concern for the environment.
 
The hills surrounding the lake are covered with forests and the water is unusually clean, so much so that in order to entirely convince us, tourist office manager Markus Strutz volunteered to drink straight from the shore. Consequently, these waters are full of fish: trout, pike, char, eels…
 
As you can check out for yourself in any of the restaurants, with a predilection for a local species with very delicate flesh: the Reinanke.


© E. Boucher/ViaMichelin

Although, strictly speaking, Klagenfurt does not front onto the lake, the town centre is only about 4 km away. So nothing could be simpler than getting there by bicycle or boat. The tourist office hires out bicycles, with the option of leaving them in different places.
 
Since the town is linked to the lake by a canal (the Lendkanal) it is also possible to get there by boat. By bicycle or on foot, the safest way to reach the lake via cycle paths and footpaths is to follow the banks of the canal. You will pass through an attractive residential district along shaded banks.
 
The Lendkanal emerges at the Europapark, a landscaped park covering 22 hectares at the lakeside, with a campsite, a beach with facilities (the Stranbad), a marina and even an attraction for children, Minimundus, where over 170 monuments from all over the world are represented at a scale of 1/25.
 
Also of note, there are two good waterside restaurants nearby: the Villa Lido and Maria Loretto. Not far away in the forest, music lovers will also discover a small wooden house where Gustav Mahler spent his holidays from 1900 to 1907. He composed some of his symphonies here, from the 4th to the 8th.


© Euro 2008 SA

Klagenfoot 2008

Klagenfurt is expecting around 120,000 people to attend each of the three UEFA matches. Since the newly built stadium has a capacity of 32,000 seats, there are likely to be quite a few fans in the streets at match time.
 
The council has provided for several “fan zones” to accommodate these supporters, who will be mainly Austrian, German, Croatian, Slovenian, Polish and Italian.
 
The stadium
Designed by Austrian architect Albert Wimmer, who also created the Innsbruck stadium, it cost a mere 66.5 million euros. A gigantic sum for the capital of Carinthia, but a third of it was paid by the region and another third by the State.
 
It is also oversized compared to the population of the town, and there is already talk of reducing it to 18,000 seats once the festivities are over.

Match schedule

8th June: Germany – Poland (8.45pm)
 
12th June: Croatia – Germany (6pm)
 
16th June: Poland – Croatia (8.45pm)

Fan Zones
The biggest one, which will be located on the site of Klagenfurt’s Exhibition Centre (Messe), 5 minutes from the station and a 10-minute walk from the town centre, can accommodate 25,000 people and will be equipped with a 60 m2 giant screen.
 
The most attractive one will unquestionably be at Neuer Platz, which has been entirely converted for the occasion with a 40 m2 video screen stretched out on the façade of the Rathaus.
 
Numerous gathering places will be scattered all over the town, but the most pleasant one should be the lakeside Europapark Fan Zone, with a capacity of 20,000 and a “beer tent” that can hold 4,500 people, directly imported from Munich where it is usually used for the beer festival.

Practical information

Information
- UEFA Euro 2008: www.klagenfurt.at/euro08
- Klagenfurt tourist office, Rathaus, Neuer Platz 1.
 
Bicycle hire
5 hire points in Klagenfurt itself and several others around Lake Wörthersee. It is possible to return bicycles at each of these depots. The hire point at the tourist office is one of the easiest to find.
 
Cruises
- Boat link to the lake via the canal. Note that there are only 2 departures a day.
- Lake cruises: http://www.woertherseeschifffahrt.at/inhalt/schifffahrt.htm. Web site in German. Day ticket: adult €11, child €6.50. It is possible to do the journey in several stages using the same ticket.
Home
Loading...

Tourism, Hotels & Restaurants

Tourism

The Spanish countryside has a huge variety of landscapes. Choose one and escape from the old routine.
Croatia’s largest city is worth a visit as much for its historic heritage as for its Slavonic and Mediterranean atmosphere.

Winter Special Offers

Double Special Offer minimum stay 2 nights free 15% from
£ 68/ room

Double Long Stay Special offer free parking and free SPA ticket (gymnasium, steam and sauna), from
£ 84/ room
Double room, prepaid not refundable, no cancellation accepted, from €
£ 83/ room

Special promotion double room prepaid not refundable, from € 124,00
£ 103/ room

Gastronomy

Legend has it that the ham was born when a pig fell and drowned in a gully filled with salty water...
The first bottle of one of the most famous Italian wines, Sassicaia, was officially sold in 1968.
 
Spain is one of the world’s major wine producers. Many of its wines enjoy international prestige. Come and discover them.You’ll find a lot more than you expect!