Once across London's Bayswater Road and through Victoria Gate, we were in Hyde Park, King Henry VIII's former royal hunting park. Here, in the late 17th and 18th century, men galloped up and down Rotten Row, while ladies in long dresses rode sidesaddle along the adjoining Ladies' Ride. Since then, the dress code has changed dramatically, but the sense of romance remains.

It all starts as you saddle up in the cobbled charm of Ross Nye Stables in Bathurst Mews, tucked away behind Paddington railway station. The stables were opened in 1965 by Australian Ross Nye, whose love of riding as a child in the Aussie bush led to a shrewd selection of larger ponies, around 14 to 15 hands, and horses up to 17 hands. While suited to the experienced rider, they can also cope with complete novices and family-style hacks.

I joined Ross's daughter, Kirsty, for the hour long hack, with Sovereign, a 16.2hh Thoroughbred cross Irish Hunter, proving the perfect companion. "We're so very lucky when you consider we're in the centre of London," she said as we rode across the Serpentine Bridge with unique "horse high" views of Kensington Gardens to the right. To the left lie 615 acres (249 hectares) of park with the 443ft high (135 metres) wheel of the London Eye in the far distance. Spring daffodils were cautiously showing their heads as we crossed the park for Rotten Row, three quarters of a mile (1,125 metres) of soft, sandy track. They say that the strange name is down to Londoners' notorious inability to parler français: originally, this was the Route du Roi, built by William III in 1690 as the royal carriage drive from Whitehall to Kensington Palace, his favourite residence.

By 1781, the name had drifted to the plebian-sounding Rotten Row, but this was where the Duke of Wellington, dressed in frock coat, top hat and white trousers, strutted his stuff on his prized Arab horse. Nowadays the celebrities still come, from film and theatre stars such as Joely Richardson and Liz Hurley to Pierce Brosnan and Clint Eastwood. Even Sir Paul McCartney and the late Jackie Kennedy are reported to have ridden, or learnt to ride, here. Although interest in riding faded in the 1970s and 80s, the track took on a new lease of life in 1990 when a special tercentenary project led to a revival of interest. Kirsty Nye proudly pointed out how new gas lamps, also installed in 1990, brought back a sense of yesteryear. "Using oil lamps, the Row was first highway in London to be illuminated," she explained, as we set off on a long canter along Britain's best-known bridleway. "Back in the late 17th century, William III installed 300 lamps to deter highwayman from jumping out at riders!"

The past is all around when you ride through the park. At Hyde Park Corner stands the splendid Wellington Arch and Apsley House. The late 18th century honey coloured home of the Duke of Wellington is now a fine museum. You almost feel part of history as you proudly head back down the centre of the park, passing the bandstand and the silky waters of the Serpentine before cutting back to Victoria Gate. There are other routes, of course. Some are more suited to the experienced; others geared to the less confident. But, believe me, which ever one you take you'll feel as tall in the saddle as horsemen and women did two centuries ago. As for the best time to ride out? That has to be the 10am or 11am rides, when you could see the Household Cavalry in full uniform, trotting along the road close by you. That's what makes a ride in Hyde Park so special.