Stockholm, a Nordic cocktail to indulge yourself on

By E. Tresmontant

Located a hop and a skip from Finnish waters, Scandinavia's biggest city offers the fascinating sight of a town built on water and surrounded by forest. With the arrival of warmer days, Stockholm and its islands can be visited on foot, by bike or by boat. Apart from the sheer beauty of the site, you'll perhaps above all appreciate the 'Scandinavian spirit' of the inhabitants' lifestyle.

See map of Stockholm

Clean, dappled with green areas and spared by car traffic, Greta Garbo's birthplace is not lacking in charm! Its underground represents a huge art gallery, its Marathon circuit is considered the world's most beautiful and its archipelago of 24,000 islands attracts, from May on, brigs and three-masters from all Scandinavia!

Swedish lifestyle

However, what impresses visitors most lastingly is the inhabitants' lifestyle: whereas their Viking ancestors terrorised Europe a thousand years ago, the Swedes - all bilingual and passionately democratic - today surprise by their pacificism, hospitality and dynamic multiculturalism. Whether you're a fan of the group ABBA or of Bergman's films, of H&M clothes or of Nordic design, of 'underground' clubs or of Mats Ek ballets, life here will meet your expectations!

Live, yes, but in the fresh air!

Whether it is snowing or the wind is blowing, the Swedes love above all to live outside (unlike the Fins who, with comparable climatic conditions, are more inclined to live in their home sweet home). In Stockholm, you'll therefore constantly see them taking advantage of the city's 38 parks (including the famous Eko Parken, the world's only urban national park) skiing, skating, cycling or simply walking! Even cafes and tearooms that don't have outdoor terraces are also full all day long because nothing is sadder for a Swede than staying at home!

Prioritising public transport

In Stockholm , 70% of the inhabitants today use public transport, leaving their car in their garage!

Following the example of London, the Swedish capital is experimenting with a city entry or exit toll system for cars (from 10 to 25 kronas, i.e. from 74p to £1.85). First rebellious against this measure, Stockholm inhabitants have finally found advantages in it, all the more so as there are many forms of transport (buses, trains, underground), which are inexpensive (£48 per month) and taxis (which abound) all accept credit cards, even for small sums.

So, for or against cars in town? A referendum will be organised on the issue on 16 September 2006.

No shoving!

Highly organised, the Swedes are also proud of having invented the ticket distributor at the beginning of the 1970s: wherever you are (station, chemist's, tearoom or shop), you'll take your ticket before joining a queue.

Children are sacred

Stockholm strikes you by the place it grants children. In Sweden, new parents enjoy 480 days of parental leave (paid 80% by the State) and fathers can take half of these days! Pushing their pram, such parents can access free of charge public transport and most public establishments like museums and libraries. Restaurants and fast-foods are also equipped with baby-changing facilities.

Taking your shoes off or not?

Another specific characteristic of Swedish life is that the Swedes like to take their shoes off at home and even when invited to friends! On the other hand, when invited to a formal dinner party, it is correct form to take a clean pair of shoes to be donned on arrival so as not to dirty your host's abode.

The coffee break

Swedes with the Fins are Europe's biggest coffee drinkers. There are therefore several official coffee breaks, called 'fika', throughout the day: in the morning, on arriving at work; after lunch; then around 3 p.m., when they accompany their coffee with a kind of balmcake sprinkled with cinnamon or cardamom.

Stockholm in summer: a paradise for sailing ships

Stockholm is specific in that it is built on fourteen islands between two large stretches of water, Mälaren Lake to the west and the Baltic Sea to the east. A lock built in 1640 at Slussen (between the present historic centre, Gamla Stan, and what was the fishermen's district at the time, Södermalm) served to separate the briny Baltic water from the lake fresh water.

On one side, to the west, you can therefore explore the lake and towns of the surroundings like Mariefred (well known for its Chartreux monastery dating back to 1493) and Sigtuna (the country's first capital).

To the other side, to the east, you can reach Finland or discover the magnificent Stockholm archipelago grouping some 24,000 islands, of which only 1,000 are inhabited all year long.

From the heart of the city (in Nybroviken or Blasieholmskajen), this singularly beautiful archipelago, known as the 'garden of wrecks', spreads over 70 km along the Baltic coast and over 140 km from north to south.

From June on, you can leave on an excursion on one of the big white 19th century ferries. Among the most picturesque islands, mention can be made of: Vaxholm, known for its 16th century fortress; Möja, remembered for its typically Swedish red huts; Sandhamm, appreciated by swimmers and sailing enthusiasts (two hours by boat from Stockholm); or else Utö, a favourite with hikers (3 hours from Stockholm by boat). All these islands have camping sites, hotels and restaurants. Don't forget that from June to July night never falls and the temperature can rise to 34°C in the daytime.


	An ethnologically inspired hotel! Founded in 2005 in the centre of Stockholm, in a modern and peaceful district well served by the underground (Rådmansgatan station), Hotel Hellsten is the singular work of an extraordinary character: Per Hellsten. This former ethnologist, journalist and photographer lived and worked for several years in Kenya in the 1970s. His hotel, housed in a fine building constructed in 1898, has 84 rooms, each differently decorated. Beams, 19th century earthenware stoves, Persian carpets, African statues, bathrooms with a very pure design, and a view over the interior courtyard, grant exquisite charm to this venue. Per Hellsten's black and white photographs are also exhibited. Singles from 900 to 1290 kronas (67 to £96), doubles from 1490 to 1590 kronas (111 to £118).

Stockholm's best

(Five part itinerary - allow approximately three days)

Children's island

If you come from June on, you absolutely must take tramway number 7 from Norrmalmstorg (the stop located near the market hall). This magnificent tramway, and its carriages dating back to the 1920s and 1950s, connects the town centre to Djurgården Island, to the east, passing in front of some of the capital's most famous sites such as Prince EugeneArt Gallery (Prins Eugens Waldemarsudde), which groups a fine collection of Nordic paintings and sculptures, the Nordic Museum (Nordiska museet), the largest museum devoted to Scandinavian history and culture, and, above all, the VasaMuseum (Vasamuseet), Sweden's most famous. This tram, operating after June 10, also has a tearoom carriage as in the train in the Wild Wild West! Alternatively, catch bus 47 following the same itinerary.

Facing the Baltic Sea, Djurgården Island was previously a royal hunting ground. Today it is a splendid residential district where cars are banished and where people come horse-riding, running or for a picnic. In May, you can watch the national Swedish kite festival here.

As you'll notice, the island has been laid out specially for children with an amusement park (Gröna Lund) and the famous open-air Skansen museum, home to wolves and reindeers ...


	For marine enthusiasts If there was only one museum to visit in Stockholm, it would be the Vasa Museum located on the western tip of the island. It houses the most famous ship of the Swedish fleet, the Vasa, a warship built in 1627 on the order of King Gustave II Adolf, then at war with Poland and the Holy German Empire. 69 m high and 53 m high at its central mast, the Vasa could carry a crew of 145 men, 300 soldiers and 64 canons. It sank as soon as it left the port and went under in the Ström. 333 years later, in 1961, this vessel was located and extracted from the mud that had completely preserved it. With its 700 sculptures, this 17th century masterpiece is a unique ship in world naval history. The museum has been built around the salvaged ship, secured in a central pit: you can admire it from the level of its Plimsoll line.

The most beautiful panorama over the city

On leaving the Vasa Museum, catch the Djurgården ferry (departures every 15 minutes) which will take you to the old Slussen lock.

This place can be called Stockholm's communication centre, between the lake and the sea on the one hand, and between the southern and northern districts on the other hand: all the undergrounds and buses converge here.

Before continuing your exploration of the city from here, take a ride on the Katarina Hissen, a curious lift that looks like a metallic crane. You'll get a fabulous 360° view over all the city and archipelago. Open every day till 22:00.

Södermalm - Stockholm's new hip district

From Slussen, you can reach the southern district of Södermalm, the only district in the city located on a rocky mound (hence its name 'crest island': Åsö). Previously, it was the district of fishermen, sailors and craftsmen as evidenced by the 17th century houses remaining on the rocky slopes.

Today, Södermalm is the 'cool' district par excellence with its cafes, bookshops, and fashion and 1970s design boutiques. You'll come across the very popular design market 'Street' here where you can make good finds at weekends.

Students, artists and young mothers like shopping in Södermalm and come together for a warming hot chocolate at Martin Isaksson's for instance. His chocolate workshop, Chokladfabriken, has the reputation of being Scandinavia's most exciting ! (see our article Stockholm, gourmand capital of Scandinavia).

Gamla Stan, the capital's gem

This island represents Stockholm's historic heart. The first city ramparts were built here in 1250. Several fires burnt down its wooden houses until it was rebuilt in the 17th century. Seen from the outside, the immense Royal Palace (Kungliga Slottet) with its 608 rooms, and in front of which the changing of the guards takes place every day at noon, is built in a quite imposing Roman Baroque style.

If you are not particularly thrilled at the thought of seeing the Swedish crown jewels here, then go for a stroll in the cobbled streets of Gamla Stan! Stortoget, with its elegant 17th and 18th century facades painted a typically Swedish ochre-red, is the city's oldest square and the setting of the famous Christmas market in December. The Stock Exchange (Börsen), built in 1776 in pure Rococo style, hosts the Nobel literature prize ceremony. Most of the streets in Gamla Stan are lined with antique and crafts shops. The long Stora Nygatan, for its part, is home to interesting Swedish fashion designers for women. Number 20 of this street is an authentic Russian restaurant proposing an excellent borsh (£10) and delicious vol-au-vents with Russian caviar (£8).

To enjoy one of the finest views over Stockholm, head to the western tip of the island, at Riddarholmen, from where you'll be able to admire Mälar Lake (still frozen when we went) and the quaysides opposite one another, Soder Malarstrand to the south and Norr Malarstrand to the north.


	For art lovers Located just to the north of Gamla Stan, beyond Strombron Bridge, the National Fine Arts Museum (Nationalmuseum) is visible from afar, with its monumental Florentine style Renaissance architecture. As Sweden's largest fine arts museum, the history of its collections dates back to the 16th century. Apart from a few fine Rembrandts, we were above all impressed by the wealth of its collections of 18th and 19th century French paintings. You'll therefore see a splendid series of Chardins and Wateaus, and also major works by Boucher, Fragonard, Largilliere and Oudry (all bought in Paris in the 1740s by the Swedish ambassador Carl Gustaf Tessin). As for the 19th century, you can admire one of Courbet's most famous paintings, 'The beautiful Irish girl' and also masterpieces by Delacroix, Gericault, Manet, Degas, Renoir, Toulouse-Lautrec, Monet, Gauguin, Cezanne. Allow 2 hours for a visit.

The market hall and the chic Ostermalm district

To reach Stockholm's genteel districts, known for their palaces and town mansions built in the 19th century by wood barons and press magnates, catch the underground or bus to Ostermalmstorg stop. If you're coming out of the National Museum, you can also come here on foot by walking along the Strandvägen quays, a fine esplanade leading to the Nobel Park known for its deciduous Swedish trees.

However Ostermalm, in Stockholm, above all calls to mind the market hall (Östermalmhallen) where you can have lunch (see our article Stockholm, gourmand capital of Scandinavia) and shop at luxurious Swedish design boutiques such as Asplund, Nordiska Galleriet and Svenskt Tenn (selling classic Swedish furniture and fabric created by the Swede-Austrian stylist Josef Frank). Crystalware is also a local speciality and you can admire such work in the Orrefors/Kosta Boda boutique and at Nordiska Kristall. Östermalm is also the district of antique dealers and major auction houses.


	Further information www.stockholmtown.com Arlanda airport is located 40 km to the north of town centre. The taxi trip costs approximately 445 kronas (£33). Alternatively, catch the Arlanda express, the fast train connecting the airport to Central Station. If you wish to enjoy the pleasure of an individual guided visit of Stockholm in English, we recommend the services of Elisabeth Daude: elisabethdaude@chello.se Hôtel Hellsten Luntmakargatan 68. www.hellsten.se Vasa Museum Galärvarvsägen 14 Tél : +46 8 519 548 00 www.vasamuseet.se National Fine Arts Museum www.nationalmuseum.se Svenskt Tenn Boutique Stranvägen 5 www.svenskttenn.se

Magazine - 01/05/06