Toulouse: a selection of addressesBy Georges RouzeauCassoulet with confit is not all you'll find in Toulouse! Talented young chefs also offer fresh, light cuisine at very reasonable prices. Toulouse occupies an advantageous location, at the crossroads of numerous regions - the Quercy, Périgord, Languedoc and Gascony, and even the Aveyron. Although the ville rose ("pink city") is the capital of confit and magret de canard (fillet of duck), goose fat cuisine, the eponymous sausage and the famous cassoulet (meat and bean stew), our selection of addresses instead puts the spotlight on young chefs who look elsewhere for inspiration. They have worked in New York, Geneva, Tokyo or Paris. Their refined dishes are in keeping with the spirit of the time and scrupulously follow the rhythm of the seasons. Restaurants  Le GalleryYou are sure to have an excellent time at the restaurant of Stéphane Réau, a young chef who knows exactly what he wants and gets it without throwing his weight around. After training in numerous star-rated establishments, he worked at the London Ritz and in Geneva. He is not trying to play to the gallery in his restaurant, but rather to concoct an inventive and tasty market cuisine based on fresh produce. His partner, an English-speaking Canadian, adds a touch of "fusion" - a direction that Stéphane Réau, a real backpacker when he travels, is happy to take. His menu particularly favours spices and exotic fragrances: vanilla, mango, lime and ginger. Of absolute freshness, the lunch menu changes every day and shows excellent value for money. In the evening, the gourmet touch is more notable, with the appearance of a few noble products such as foie gras, morel mushrooms and sea bass. On the programme the night we visited: juicy pan-fried gambas (large prawns) with mango and lime, and just the right level of spiciness, a cod cooked to perfection and a very light tiramisu, rhubarb crème brûlée-style. On Sundays, the whole city makes a beeline for Le Gallery for the English brunch, a fashion that Stéphane Réau, a former Londoner, launched himself in the capital of the Midi-Pyrénées region. Le Gallery 8, rue Maury 31000 Toulouse Tel. : 05 61 99 30 81  Le Genty MagreIn less than two years, Romain Brard has made his restaurant one of the most reliable in the city. Trained in New York and Japan at the school of efficiency and Asian flavours, this meticulous young chef lovingly prepares market-fresh cuisine, served by a very professional and helpful team. Here again, the lunch menu changes every day, except for one fixed dish, beef tartare in the summer months and magret de canard (fillet of duck) in winter. As for the rest, freshness, flavours, imagination and precise cooking are on the agenda, with two-course menus that go from ¤12.50 to ¤30 at lunchtime and up to ¤42 in the evening, for a gourmet menu. The menu offers an excellent combination of the regions of the southwest and exotic products, land and sea, cooked and raw, hot and cold. Between the marinated petit-gris snails and the crayfish with coriander, the curried spare ribs with baby vegetables and the red tuna with fine spices served with ratatouille, or a light Paris-Brest cake and a warm Fuji apple and raisin crumble, it is impossible not to find something to your taste. Le Genty Magre 3, rue Genty Magre 31000 Toulouse Tel. : 05 61 21 38 60  Le 19The restaurant of the Hôtel Garonne, Le 19 is worth a visit first of all for its setting, which brings together the vaulted cellar of a former fishery on the banks of the Garonne, an old manor house and a superb ribbed vault from the 15th century. The wine cellar, which opens onto the basement dining room, is almost worth the trip alone. The refined and minimalist decor shows this exceptional architecture to its full advantage. As for the food, chef Jean Oliva works with fine produce (scallops, foie gras, langoustines, sea bass, John Dory, turbot) in a classic, refined spirit. In the evening, Le 19 decks itself out in all its finery, with a larger team and resolutely gourmet orientation. The two-course lunchtime menus, at ¤15, ¤19 and ¤23, offer excellent value for money. Le 19 19, Descente de la Halle aux Poissons 31000 Toulouse Tel. : 05 34 31 94 84 www.restaurantle19.com  7 Place Saint-SerninWhat a joy to go into a restaurant as you would into a home, a real Toulouse-style house with its hall, rooms and staircase - the light, acid-drop shades of the refined and modern decor immediately put you into a good mood, as does the efficient, attentive service. In the summer months, you can admire the Saint-Sernin basilica, a masterpiece of Romanesque architecture, from the small terrace at the foot of the house. On the menu, Benoît Cantalloube's cuisine quietly displays his gourmet ambitions: foie gras from the Landes, lobster salad with baby vegetables, frogs' legs with petit-gris snails and calf's sweetbreads, and scallops with truffles. The only slight criticism is that the portions could leave some people still feeling a little peckish... NB: 1 euro is worth approximately GBP0.69. 7 Place Saint-Sernin 7, place Saint-Sernin 31000 Toulouse Tel. : 05 62 30 05 30 Le J'Go From Tarbes beans to spit-roasted farm chicken from Gers, from black pork from Bigorre to farm lamb from Quercy, this restaurant celebrates the good produce from southwestern France. A clientele of rugby players and fans, and bullring aficionados. Hot atmosphere, especially at aperitif time! L'Empereur de Huê Had enough of cassoulet? Peckish for pan-fried crisp vegetables, a lime-marinated fish tartare, a spring roll with roast duck and green mango, or peach jelly? The empress of aromatic herbs, Sandra Truong-Qui, reigns over a kingdom of subtle Vietnamese flavours unknown in France. Her cuisine is made at the last minute, using only fresh produce and without any flavour enhancers. Booking essential.  Le BateauThis address will be one of the headquarters of the 2007 Rugby World Cup. A childhood friend of Jean-Pierre Rives, Bibi is a well-known figure on the Toulouse restaurant scene, for a long time manager of Brasserie de l'Opéra, the legendary address on Place du Capitole. On his barge tied to the banks of the Garonne, Bibi proposes fresh cuisine based on fish, grilled meats and salads. Ideally located with a view of the other bank and a refreshing breeze! Le Bateau Port de la Daurade 31000 Toulouse Tel. : 05 61 12 29 34 Cafés, bars  Au Père LouisAn historic monument! This end 19th century cafe, one of the oldest in Toulouse still open, has kept most of its classified decor, an old tin bar, barrels, bistrot tables and smoke-patinated frescoes extolling the Garonne quaysides. A specialist of aperitifs that are fast disappearing like Quinquina; regional wines menu; local cuisine at lunch and cooked pork meat platters at night. Au Père Louis 45, rue des Tourneurs 31000 Toulouse Tel. : 05 61 21 33 45  Le BibentThis brasserie, featuring magnificent wainscotting, is a local institution. From coffee at breakfast time to brunches, foie gras, and afternoon teas, this rather chic address nevertheless caters for a broad clientele. The Place du Capitole is a major meeting place. Highly patronised terraces occupy the arcades. Le Bibent 5, Place du Capitole 31000 Toulouse Tel. : 05 61 23 89 03  Place Saint-GeorgesMore intimate and less noisy than Place du Capitole, this pedestrianised square is pleasantly shaded by beautiful trees. At the bottom of neoclassical facades and a few half-timbered houses, you'll find a succession of busy cafe terraces. Parents should take note that the square has an enclosed children's games area. Ideal for a peaceful coffee. Place Saint-Georges Place Saint-Georges 31000 Toulouse Place Saint-Pierre The Mecca of third half-times where drinks flow like water! Sports, and especially rugby, fans will be spoilt for choice. There are four addresses: the Bar basque, Couleur de la Culotte, Café Saint-Pierre and Pastis ô Maître - chez Tonton. This latter address is to be recommended only to fans of rather special competitions... Sensitive souls should refrain! Place Saint-Pierre 31000 Toulouse Three hotels in good locations Novotel Centre Between the Canal du Midi and one of the ring roads of Toulouse, this impeccably comfortable chain hotel is ten minutes' walk away from the Place Saint-Sernin. Its big asset: unbeatable weekend deals for families. Novotel Centre 5, place Alfonse Jourdain 31000 Toulouse Tel. : 05 61 21 74 74 Fax.: 05 61 22 81 22 H0906@accor.com www.novotel.com  Hôtel Garonne On the banks of the Garonne and five minutes away from the Capitole, this charming luxury hotel offers 14 rooms decorated in warm, dark shades - oak parquet, Wengé wood bedhead, beige two-tone curtains. The suites have a CD player and bathroom with sound system. A chic and intimate place. Hôtel Garonne 22, Descente de la Halle aux Poissons 31000 Toulouse Tel. : 05 34 31 94 80 Fax.: 05 34 31 94 81 contact@hotelgaronne.com www.hotelgaronne.com Hôtel Saint-Claire Olivier Courtaud dreamt of opening his own hotel. A goal now achieved with this charming address located in the vicinity of Allées Jean-Jaurès and Place Wilson. Air-conditioned, soundproofed and WiFi equipped rooms decorated in light shades and featuring warm materials like sea rush. Hôtel Saint-Claire 29, Place Nicolas Bachelier 31000 Toulouse Tel. : 05 34 40 58 88 Fax.: 05 61 57 85 89 www.stclairehotel.fr Two original B&Bs selected in the MICHELIN® Coups de c½ur France guide  La Pradasse20 kilometres (12 miles) from Toulouse, in the Lauraguais, this old pink brick barn from 1889 has been converted into a magnificent 19-century-style iron and glass structure. A great fan of wrought iron, the owner himself made the structure of most of the furniture. The whole decor mixes, with panache, flea market furniture (with a predilection for the 1930s) and contemporary objects, and favours raw materials such as glass, cement and iron. Prepared using vegetables from the garden, the table d'hôte offers a delicious blend of traditional cuisine and creativity. An address which should even be of interest to businessmen visiting Airbus Industrie. La Pradasse (M. et Mme Antoine) 39, chemin de Toulouse 31450 Ayguesvives Tel. : 05 61 81 55 96  La Péniche Soleïado Fancy waking up on a barge moored on the Canal du Midi, in the shade of ancient plane trees? Taking your meals on the deck in the sunshine? Then this address, less than ten kilometres (6 miles) from Toulouse, is for you! La Péniche Soleïado (Mme Roussel) Pont-de-Mange-Pomme 31520 Ramonville-Saint-Agne Tel. : 06 86 27 83 19 Shops Boutique du Stade toulousain Balls, accessories, key rings, flags, stickers, shorts, shoes, sweatshirts: the official shop of one of the world's best teams! Boutique du Stade toulousain 75, rue d'Alsace-Lorraine 31000 Toulouse Rugby World Shop All the official products of the 2007 Rugby World Cup. Rugby World Shop 54, bis rue Alsace Lorraine 31000 Toulouse Tel. : 05 61 23 59 27 |
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