| 01/12/07 Contents > All destinations > Hotels > Restaurants > Tourist attractions  Florence: the Oltrarno district... Oltrarno, on the other side of the river, the Florence of the Florentines, survives thanks to a community of craftsmen who are trying to safeguard their ancestral expertise. Take time to explore this district, which is still managing to avoid “museumification”. |
Meet the craftspeople of OltrarnoBy Georges RouzeauOur selection of the places to go to explore traditional Florentine skills.  1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14    © G. Rouzeau/ViaMichelin Bartolozzi e Maioli Opening wide onto the Piazza della Passera, the Bartolozzi e Maioli artistic cabinetmaking and restoration studio emits a delicious scent of sawdust and wax polish, somewhere between antique shop and Uffizi Museum storeroom. A miscellany of originals, copies or restored pieces, candelabras, altarpieces, statues of saints, crucifixes and frames are piled up in skilfully poetic disorder. © G. Rouzeau/ViaMichelin Opened in 1938 by Florentine Fiorenzo Bartolozzi andGiuseppe Maioli of Ravenna, the studio notably took care of the restoration of Monte Cassino Abbey for twelve years. So here you are in one of the most renowned restoration workshops in the world. Alas, it is only open for group tours! But nobody will stop you having a look from outside. Bartolozzi e Maioli Via die Vellutini 5r 50125 Florence Tel: +39 055 239 86 33 www.bartolozziemaioli.it© G. Rouzeau/ViaMichelin L’Ippogrifo At the top end of Via Santa Spirito stands L’Ippogrifo,the charming little boutique-cum-studio of engravings by Gianni Raffaelli and his wife Francesca. Gianni is a true native of Borgo San Frediano, where he was born in 1952. © G. Rouzeau/ViaMichelin The man can talk forever about the origin of engraving, an offshoot of the goldsmith’s trade, and of etching, an alchemist’s invention, for which Florence became the epicentre during the Renaissance. From choice of original design to engraving, including the inking and colouring with watercolours, each of this artist’s prints radiates good taste. Prices start at €4 for a bookmark. L’Ippogrifo (Gianni Raffaelli) Via Santo Spirito 5r 50125 Florence Tel: + 39 055 213 255 info@stampeippogrifo.com© G. Rouzeau/ViaMichelin Studio Puck Franco Carraï and his associates greet us at the Puck studio, where engravings printed on an 18th century press are hand painted. The studio also makes original frames using undressed wood (cherry, hazel) in old or contemporary style. The genre of the works, a combination of engraving, watercolour and découpage (according to a 17th century method), relates to a style of neo-Baroque that will be at home in a contemporary cabinet of curiosities. Prices from €450. © G. Rouzeau/ViaMichelin The tour isn’t over. Wearing a faded Lacoste polo shirt, jeans and deck shoes, Franco Carraï then leads the way to the showroom for his work as an interior architect – his second passion. The space is located on the ground floor of the Frescobaldi Palace, whose gardens look onto the bell tower of Santo Spirito, the most beautiful church in Florence in Franco’s opinion. Moreover, together with the Marquis of Frescobaldi, who lives just above, he has created an association to financially secure the future of this jewel. Studio Puck Via Santo Spirito 28 r 50125 Florence Tel: +39 055 28 09 54 www.studiopuck.it© G. Rouzeau/ViaMichelin Ponziani Another place that flies the flag for the traditional craft industry, Ponziani produces reproduction antique furniture that is entirely hand decorated. Some pieces are lacquered according to the technique that the Venetians learnt from the Chinese in the 17th century. Most of the pieces require three months’ work. © G. Rouzeau/ViaMichelin Opened in the late 19th century, the Ponziani studio was initially devoted to the restoration of original works. This unique intimacy with an exceptional heritage progressively led the studio to create its own models. Price: no set prices for custom-made items, but we saw a small cupboard costing €1,500. Ponziani Via Santo Spirito 27 50125 Florence Tel: +39 055 28 79 58 ponziani@lostudiolo.com© G. Rouzeau/ViaMichelin Raffaello Romanelli Raffaello Romanelli was a famous 19th century Florentine sculptor, responsible for Donatello’s cenotaph in San Lorenzo and the bust of Benvenuto Cellini on the Ponte Vecchio. Today, we are greeted by Vincenzo (22) and Rafaello (27), the sixth generation of Romanellis, both sculptors. © G. Rouzeau/ViaMichelin The family’s studio in Via San Frediano is a former 14th century church that was previously occupied by the master of Raffaello Romanelli, Lorenzo Bartolini. Beneath a twenty-metre-high ceiling, an impressive equestrian statue sizes you up in the midst of busts, animals and other statues. A marvellous, timeless place. Prices from €200. Raffaello Romanelli Galleria Romanelli Borgo San Frediano 70 50124 Florence Tel: +39 055 239 66 62 raroart@raffaelloromanelli.191.it© G. Rouzeau/ViaMichelin Scagliola The art of scagliola is not terribly well known: it originated in 17th century Germany from the desire to imitate antique objects made of marble and stone mosaics. This technique subsequently became incredibly fashionable throughout Europe in the 18th century. Scagliola is actually the most perfect imitation of marble. One can, moreover, admire magnificent scagliola tables in the Pitti Palace.© G. Rouzeau/ViaMichelin The name “scagliola” refers to selenite, sometimes called moonstone. This form of gypsum, once ground and mixed with pigments and animal glue, makes a white paste. This is then poured onto any type of support or piece of furniture and sanded at length. The result is highly appealing for its smoothness and the richness of its range of colours. © G. Rouzeau/ViaMichelin AlessandroBianchi welcomed us into his showroom on Via Maggio. His father, Bianco Bianchi, a former civil servant at the Ministry of Defence, saved this technique from the certain death it was facing, despite having been taught at the prestigious Florence Academy of Fine Arts. Until his death last year, he collected the world’s largest collection of scagliola.The works produced by the Bianco Bianchi studio adorn the most lavish residences throughout the world. Bianco Bianchi, masters of Scagliola, i maestri della pietra di luna Via maggio 4r 50125 Florence Tel: +39 055 2658257 © G. Rouzeau/ViaMichelin Bini Alfonso While strolling around the Piazza Santo Spirito, you can’t miss this studio, where craftsmen work with the doors wide open. Here, wood is turned to make hat blocks for the greatest couturiers, as well as small wooden objects. Bini Alfonso, bottega artigiana di forme ed oggetti in legno Piazza Santo Spirito 5r 50125 Florence Tel: +39 055 282 292 www.hatblock.com |
Tourism and Gastronomy
Send to a friend
Print this article