“48 The Restaurant” in AthensBy Solon DouligérisChristoforos Peskias, the most innovative and charismatic Greek chef of his generation, works in the “48” restaurant at the foot of Mount Lycabettus. In an ultramodern setting, he offers an “emotional” cuisine that gives pride of place to the original flavours of the produce. The “48” appeared on Athens’ gastronomic scene in 2003, on the initiative of businessman Doris Margellos. Set in a former joiner’s workshop in the working-class district of Ambelokipi, near the very “chic” Kolonaki, with its art galleries and luxury boutiques, the “48” boasts a refined, minimalist décor, the work of the best architects in the city. Water and light elements (works by Londoner Arnold Chan) are everywhere, even beneath the almost entirely translucent floor! In the dining room, the service is fast and discreet. A well-known gourmet, Doris Margellos wanted his restaurant’s cuisine to be creative, but also rooted in Greek tradition… And so he called upon Cypriot chef Christoforos Peskias: 45 years old, mild-mannered and discreet at first sight, but explosive in the kitchen! This thoroughbred Mediterranean, who studied business administration in Boston, trained with American chef Charlie Trotter in Chicago. He then perfected his art alongside worldwide stars such as Ferran Adria, Marc Meneau and Joël Robuchon.  © S. Douligéris When interviewed, Christoforos calls himself a “deconstructionist”: for him, technique must create surprise, make people think and show that conventions are made to be overstepped. Thus he takes wicked delight in completely recreating the Greek salad: tomato sorbet, peppers and cheese set in gelatin, cucumber mousse, fried onion crisps and pureed Kalamata olives. His tomato sushi, a delight and a 48 “classic”, is none other than the popular stuffed tomato… and a nod to Asian cuisine! By applying technique acquired from the greatest chefs to traditional dishes, Christoforos shatters custom with, for example, his cod with aioli, his lamb’s kidneys and his peinirlis (a sort of modest stuffed pasty that the Greek populations of Asia Minor used to adore) the like of which you won’t find anywhere in Greece. Beyond pure virtuosity, Christoforos wants the flavours and “full taste” of Greek cuisine to remain intact.  © S. Douligéris According to him, technique is not an end in itself or cuisine a “game” for celebrities always looking for something new… The products he works with express the quintessence of Greece: wild herbs from Crete, wild artichokes and sea asparagus that grows on the rocks of the islands of the Aegean Sea, not forgetting the sun-kissed, iodine-rich vetch and cherry tomatoes from Santorini. Christoforos also has a soft spot for avgolemono, an egg-and-lemon-based sweet and sour sauce (the only sauce in Greek cuisine), which accompanies certain typical dishes. He uses it, for example, to enhance his “fake tagliatelle” (made with long white turnips cut into strips) with botargo (cured fish roe) from Messologhi, to liven up lamb’s tongue and brains with “peasant’s” salad, and his fricassee of lamb and garlic caramel... The world of the sea is also present on the menu, with a few rarities and unusual fish such as amberjack (pelagic fish), grouper or the little shark known locally as kentroni. As for meats, cooking times are very long (72hr), which is the only way to preserve their most delicate flavours. To finish smoothly, Christoforos Peskias offers excellent desserts, such as a light and airy cinnamon cream or an amazing coconut mousse samali (traditional semolina cake), flavoured with “mastic” of Chios* and served with a light orange sauce (that you can wash down with a superb Parparoussis 2003 Muscat of Patras). WinesThe wine list boasts 450 labels at very reasonable prices (the winegrowers’ wine cellar price being multiplied only by two, or less for the more expensive wines). Although sommelier Yannis Kaïmenakis is particularly fond of French wines from the Rhone Valley and Languedoc- Roussillon, he also offers a very large range of Greek wines of different vintages. Among his favourites are wines from the island of Santorini: “The Nycteri from the Hadzidakis estate is one of the restaurant’s bestsellers…it goes wonderfully well with the octopus gazpacho or bogue seviche” he tells us. As for red wines, allow yourself to be tempted by the sublime 1997 Naoussas from the Kyr Yanni estate and Boutari’s 1990 Naoussas: perfect for accompanying lamb and other meat dishes. If you just want a light meal or a drink, the “48” also offers a selection of forty cheeses, good quality cooked pork meats, and very refined little tapas-style dishes, as well as about forty wines “by the glass”. *A sort of gum extracted from a tree on the island of Chios. Practical information48 The Restaurant 48 Armatolon & Klefton, Ambelokipi Athens Tel: + 30 210 64 11 082 Open Monday to Saturday from 9pm to 1am (last sitting), closed on Sunday. From €55 to €75 à la carte (not including wine), sampler menu €70. In good weather, the outdoor terrace seats 40. The restaurant is closed from the end of May to the beginning of September. |
Tourism and Gastronomy
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