Good eateries in CologneBy Emmanuel TresmontantIn old Cologne, drinking a Kölsch is a real pleasure because, in addition to the picturesque quality of the service, its taste differs depending on the brewery where it was made… As for restaurants, two places really stand out, each in a different style: Oyster and Le Moissonnier. A closer look at “Kölsch culture” There has always been a petty war between Cologne and Munich on the subject of beer: which of the two cities produces and consumes most beer? They each lay claim to the trophy, of course! In Cologne anyway, the famous Kölsch lends itself to a ritual that combines elegance, refinement and courtesy: this locally brewed light pale ale is actually served in small spindly 20cl glasses called Kölner Stangen, which contrast with the enormous Munich tankards. This fast-fermenting beer has a slightly bitter taste and is drunk chilled, but not overly so.  © E. Tresmontant/ViaMichelin The blue-aproned waiter, nicknamed Köbes, is a symbolic figure of Cologne: he brings your beer on a round tray with handles, pierced with 6 holes that can hold glasses. As soon as your glass is empty, it is replaced, so you have to place your beer mat on top of it to indicate to the Köbes that you have had enough. The most renowned beer in Cologne is the one matured in casks made by the Päffgen brewery, founded in 1883, which has its own mineral spring. The beer halls have in general kept a traditional décor, such as the Thekenschiff, a sort of cabin where the boss is cashier. The Kölsch is served with small rye bread rolls called Halven Hahnn (half a cockerel) covered in slices of semi-matured gouda, a bit of onion and mustard. All the beer halls in the city centre also offer local specialities, such as black pudding with onion (Kölsche Kaviar) or black pudding with apple and potato (Himmel und Ad). On the banks of the Rhine, Haxe Haus (literally “house of the knuckle of pork”) is renowned for serving the best knuckle in the city, as well as a grilled sausage half a metre long. Very near the cathedral, the Frü am Dom beer hall is the most popular and convivial, with its twirling waiters, its cellar full of barrels and its old frescoes: local inhabitants like to come here for a bite to eat until midnight. Oyster, an up-and-coming placeA stone’s throw from the Eigelsteintor gate, Oyster was created in September 2006 by young chef Peter Foltynowicz and sommelier Ralf-Peter Lembke. Saltimbocca of tuna with rocket © E. Tresmontant/ViaMichelin As soon as you enter, you are pleasantly struck by the relaxed atmosphere of this café, which is frequented by a young clientele (between 30 and 40 years old) of seafood-loving intellectuals. The Marennes oysters are wonderfully fresh (€14.50 for half a dozen), as are the curried mussels (€9.50), turbot in Muscadet (€21.50) and lobster on black pasta (€23.50). Peter Foltynowicz’s cuisine is full of flavours and contrasts with, for example, his saltimbocca of tuna with rocket (€10.50) and his carpaccio of fillet of beef with black truffle shavings (€15.50). The highly likeable Ralf-Peter Lembke, for his part, offers a fine wine list of French, German, Italian and Spanish wines by the glass to accompany each dish. Le MoissonnierThis fine luxury brasserie, founded in 1987 by Vincent Moissonnier, has become, over the years, the leading restaurant in Cologne up until its recent consecration by the Michelin Guide, which has just given it a second star in 2008. © E. Tresmontant/ViaMichelin Set in a building listed as an historic monument, 10 minutes away from the station, Le Moissonnier appeals first of all for its Viennese-style Art Deco setting. Forty-something Vincent Moissonnier was voted Germany’s best sommelier for French wines and spirits in 1991. He was, most importantly, the first to offer wines by the glass. Vincent wants to make wine accessible, which is why he has devised, in addition to the “prestige wine list” a “nice” wine list where you will find Marcel Lapierre’s sulphur-free Morgon, the white and red Sancerres of François Crochet (the rising star of the appellation), the Crozes-Hermitages of the Le Colombier estate, and Jacques Puffeney’s Jura wines.  Rabbit pâté © E. Tresmontant/ViaMichelin As for the cuisine, Vincent has handed the reins to talented young chef Éric Menchon. On the menu, Le Moissonnier offers a string of dishes of impressive finesse, such as the brandade of cod with kefir leaves served with marinaded sardine fillets: a work of art! The rabbit pâté with Roscoff onions marinaded in yellow wine is also exquisite – proof that brasserie cuisine can be elegant and refined, when given the chance! And what about the pigeon supreme with foie gras, preserved with harissa and combined with an exotic crunchy quinoa couscous? Like his master Pierre Gagnaire, Vincent Moissonnier likes to cross borders and combine the flavours of East and West. Before dessert, the cheeses selected and ripened by Alsatian cheese master Bernard Antony leave you speechless, as usual! Dish of the day: €16.50. Four-course menu: €53, or €73 including wine. AddressesPäffgen Friesenstrasse 64-66 50670 Köln Tél : +49-221-135461 Oyster Thürmchenswall 62 50668 Köln Tél : +49 221 99 23 271 Le Moissonnier Krefelder strasse 25 50670 Köln Tél : +49 221 72 94 79 |
Tourism and Gastronomy
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