Hiking in the Büech Valley (Hautes-Alpes)By Georges RouzeauThe Büech Valley (Hautes-Alpes) serves as a grandiose setting for a six-day eco-tourist hike organised by the French forestry commission. Each evening, a guide relates the history, flora and fauna of this isolated region. Each night is spent in a restored forest gîte in an abandoned village. Retrouvance is a six-day hike organised by the ONF (French forestry commission) in the most remote parts of the Büech Valley in the Hautes-Alpes, along forgotten paths to abandoned villages where old sheep barns or schools have been converted into gîtes. Every evening, around the fire, an ONF guide tells the hikers about this region, its landscape, flora and fauna, after a meal prepared using local produce and delivered by the fermes auberges (farmhouse inns) round about.  © DR The landscape encountered along the way is extremely varied, at once wild, natural and forested, and accommodates great biodiversity: stag, roe deer, wild boar, chamois, wild sheep and soon ibex; over 1,200 plant species including 90 rare and 24 protected ones; over 100 species of bird including 85 nesting birds. Most of the abandoned villages have kept traces of their past (school, bread oven, washhouse, cemetery…), symbols of a very active communal life. The Retrouvance gîtes have been renovated, preserving their authenticity but equipped with standards of comfort unusual for hiking and almost unheard of in such remote spots. The use of renewable energy has been systematic, with photovoltaic solar panels and/or micro-turbines. These installations reinforce the self-sufficiency of the buildings and the resolutely eco-tourist character of Retrouvance. The gîtes are always reserved exclusively for the group (6 to 12 people) who can thus be “at home” every evening. The logistics manager, a veritable roving innkeeper, takes care of the service and transport of bags and represents the only link with civilisation for the week. The hikers come across only one tarred road in 6 days, more frequently finding foresters, lumberjacks or shepherds – all great experts on these remote landscapes.  Agnielles © DR The hikers are picked up at the station in Veyne, but the journey on foot starts at Agnielles, once they have made acquaintance in a beautiful vaulted 17th century house. In Agnielles, a few buildings, the cemetery and church bell tower are all that remain; in 1858, this hamlet still had 49 pupils attending school. After six hours walking the next day, through the magnificent Col de l’Echaup, the second stopover is at Recours in a more intimate, forested site. Third stopover in Rabioux: the change of scene is radical after crossing the Col de Lauteret; at the foot of the cliffs of the Massif d’Aurouze, the landscape is much more open. The fourth stopover, the Les Sauvas gîte, then plunges the hikers into the heart of the magnificent Cirque de Bure, where it is not uncommon to see marmots and chamois. During the fifth stage, which ends by going up the Petit Büech gorge, you reach Chaudun, which is probably the most isolated and thrilling spot on the route. After Chaudun and the crossing of wild sheep territory, the itinerary ends at Rabou, the last inhabited village at the end of the valley. Far from the noise, rivalry and stock exchange quotations, this hike is an opportunity to get back in touch with nature and its landscapes, and – why not – with oneself. Retrouvance on snowshoesIn winter, you can also do Retrouvance on snowshoes, but this involves a star-shaped itinerary based from two forest houses located in the Dévoluy massif, where the northern and southern Alps meet. An outing in the forest on the first day allows you to get used to the snowshoes. Each stage of the circuit can be adjusted depending on snow cover and weather conditions. Practical informationVeynois tourist office Tel: 04 92 57 27 43 Fax: 04 92 58 16 18 E-mail: Tourisme.Veynois@wanadoo.fr Duration 6 days – 5 nights. For groups of 6 to 12 people. Mid-April until end of October. Short programme possible. Spring and autumn are recommended for the flowers and coolness. Level For intermediate hikers. 5 to 8 hours’ walking per day, no carrying (except picnic and personal belongings). Good physical condition required. Equipment Standard equipment for hiking in medium mountains (detailed list supplied). Rates €520 per person, all-inclusive, with guide. Unaccompanied hikes possible (€470/person), i.e. without a guide but still with full service, for organised groups of 6 or more. Privileges: organised groups of 6 or more (with or without guide) have gîtes reserved for their exclusive use. |
Tourism and Gastronomy
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