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L'Olivier restaurant
Emmanuel Tresmontant-2009-09-01
Just a stone’s throw from Place de la Republique in Paris, Athens-born chef, Alexiou Vassili, is introducing Parisian restaurant goers to the traditional, once-forgotten, recipes of his homeland. The result is a revelation.
Good Greek restaurants are hard to come by in Paris. But L'Olivier, a special restaurant in so many ways, is an exception. Anyone scouring the L'Olivier’ menu for taramasalata, moussaka, tzatziki or souvlaki is searching in vain for these dishes, served as they are in the French capital, and viewed by many Europeans as traditional Greek cuisine, bear very little resemblance to the original recipes that once inspired them.
For example, taramasalta is only really eaten in Greece “during Easter around Lent, serving as a substitute for meat,” explains Vassily. “Moussaka, meanwhile, is a dish that is cooked in the oven over a long period of time and is only really eaten during the summer using aubergine and authentic Greek yogurt. Here in Paris, the restaurants and delis offer it all year round and use lots of béchamel sauce!"
For example, taramasalta is only really eaten in Greece “during Easter around Lent, serving as a substitute for meat,” explains Vassily. “Moussaka, meanwhile, is a dish that is cooked in the oven over a long period of time and is only really eaten during the summer using aubergine and authentic Greek yogurt. Here in Paris, the restaurants and delis offer it all year round and use lots of béchamel sauce!"
Born in Athens 34 years ago, Vassily met wife to be, Orfanidis Niki, on the island of Santorini. The young couple moved to Paris in 2006 and by June 2007 they had opened L'Olivier on boulevard du Temple, determined to offer an alternative to the food traditionally offered by Greek restaurants in the French capital.
"We wanted to get back to the authentic taste of Greek cuisine that is far richer and far more varied than people here believe. For this, we dug up some original, long-forgotten traditional recipes such as corn and dandelion salad, oven-roasted lamb roast with bulgur flavoured with black truffles [a recipe from Crete], cod with aioli and botargo risotto [a traditional dish from the Cyclades], cream cheese flavoured with cardamom, nutmeg, raisins and honey [a typical dessert hailing from the island of Patmos) and couscous cake with honey and currants accompanied by halva ice cream [a real treat!]."
The range and subtlety of the flavours that accompany these authentic dishes are, of course, down to the ingredients, freshly imported from all over Greece. Botargo [cured fish roe] from the Ionian Islands, honey, dried wild sage and olive oil from Crete, sun dried tomatoes and Fava beans from Santorini.
"We wanted to get back to the authentic taste of Greek cuisine that is far richer and far more varied than people here believe. For this, we dug up some original, long-forgotten traditional recipes such as corn and dandelion salad, oven-roasted lamb roast with bulgur flavoured with black truffles [a recipe from Crete], cod with aioli and botargo risotto [a traditional dish from the Cyclades], cream cheese flavoured with cardamom, nutmeg, raisins and honey [a typical dessert hailing from the island of Patmos) and couscous cake with honey and currants accompanied by halva ice cream [a real treat!]."
The range and subtlety of the flavours that accompany these authentic dishes are, of course, down to the ingredients, freshly imported from all over Greece. Botargo [cured fish roe] from the Ionian Islands, honey, dried wild sage and olive oil from Crete, sun dried tomatoes and Fava beans from Santorini.
Alexiou and Orfanidis Niki are clearly excited about their work and share a real passion for authentic Greek food! "Greek cuisine has become so far removed from its roots that it’s now been reduced to a stereotype. However, our aim isn’t to try and revive some mythical Golden Age or to obsess over lost tastes and dishes. Our cuisine aims to reflect a contemporary and creative approach.”
Given free reign, Alexiou is capable of inspirational, creative dishes that would make Heston Blumenthal green with envy, such as truffle potatoes with cocoa jelly, black truffles, capers and cream or beetroot tagliatelle with marinated anchovies and coriander.
Whether they fall under the "traditional" or "creative" category, the inventive and meticulously crafted dishes at L'Olivier never fail to surprise. As for the wine, well, Alexiou and Orfanidis Niki offer a list that features some great white wines from Santorini vineyards such as Hatzidakis and Parparoussis, where the wonderful Muscat de Rio Patras is produced. An opportunity not to be missed for any wine buffs!
Given free reign, Alexiou is capable of inspirational, creative dishes that would make Heston Blumenthal green with envy, such as truffle potatoes with cocoa jelly, black truffles, capers and cream or beetroot tagliatelle with marinated anchovies and coriander.
Whether they fall under the "traditional" or "creative" category, the inventive and meticulously crafted dishes at L'Olivier never fail to surprise. As for the wine, well, Alexiou and Orfanidis Niki offer a list that features some great white wines from Santorini vineyards such as Hatzidakis and Parparoussis, where the wonderful Muscat de Rio Patras is produced. An opportunity not to be missed for any wine buffs!
Definitely an address to remember!
L'Olivier
15, boulevard du Temple
75003 Paris
Tel: 01 42 77 12 51
Daily lunch menu: 13 € (starter and main course or main course and dessert)
À la carte menu: 30-40 €.
Seats 20 inside and 12 on the terrace. Open every day except Saturday lunch and Sunday.
Tel: 01 42 77 12 51
Daily lunch menu: 13 € (starter and main course or main course and dessert)
À la carte menu: 30-40 €.
Seats 20 inside and 12 on the terrace. Open every day except Saturday lunch and Sunday.
