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Interview with Salvatore Tiscione (Restaurant Felice a Testaccio, Rome, Italy)
| 2009-10-05 By Fabrizio Raimondi To eat at Felice is to eat in the heart of the Italian capital. Here, in this authentic trattoria located in the city’s Testaccio neighbourhood, you can still enjoy time-honoured Roman tastes, traditions and hospitality. The anecdotes and curiosities, the meticulous Laziale cuisine and the hearty, vibrant Castelli Romani wines to “make your day fresh and carefree”.  © Felice a Testaccio It’s really the story of Felix, one of the most loved chefs in Testaccio. He’s the one that taught me all the tricks of Roman cuisine. I'm Sicilian. I've been here for seven years and it’s thanks to him that I learned to become a fully-fledged Roman. What are the restaurant’s specialties? Traditional Roman dishes, lightened in line with contemporary tastes. Tonnarelli cacio e pepe [Tonnarelli pasta with peppers and cheese], amatriciana [a spicy tomato, chilli and dried pork cheek pasta dish], carbonara, gricia [also known as amatriciana in bianco, so called because it is made without tomatoes], roast lamb with potatoes, lamb sweetbreads with artichokes, chicken cacciatore. In line with Roman tradition, each day of the week corresponds to a traditional dish and we have many customers who come to visit according to the menu of the day.  © Felice a Testaccio There are many. But the most popular is the Tonnarelli cacio e pepe . Our tonnarelli is simple and creamy and the secret lies in determining the right amount of cooking water, olive oil, Pecorino Romano and Parmigiano-Reggiano. The simple things are oftens the most difficult to achieve but also the best. I would say this dish is closely followed by the artichokes alla Romana prepared and pan-fried according to the Felice recipe: using oil, pepper and salt and no mint or garlic. Where is the restaurant located what does it look like? We are proud to be in one of Rome’s more “authentic" neighbourhoods. Testaccio is a country within the city. Unlike other districts it hasn’t lost any of the original popular spirit that makes it so unique and fascinating. The restaurant was renovated a few years ago but has maintained its authenticity, with exposed brickwork, wooden tables, decor and added touches that compliment the friendliness and cheerfulness of Franco and Mauritius, Felix’s son and grandson respectively, who serve in the dining room. What is the restaurant’s formula for success? Using the best raw materials. Not putting too many frills on the plate and seasoning everything with the openess of the Roman spirit. Coming to Felice is about eating well but also about spending a pleasant evening with friends. Would you say the cuisine is mainly “di terra” [from the land}? There are also a number of sea food options, particularly on Fridays. Skate and Broccoli soup, baby octopus with peas, fried fish, baked cod, fresh fettuccine with mussels and pecorino... |
