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Bagatelle restaurant: Eyvind Hellstrøm, Genius of the Fjords
Emmanuel Tresmontant-2009-04-06
In Oslo you will come across one of the most exiting chefs in Europe: Eyvind Hellstrøm (two stars in the 2009 Michelin Guide.)
The last few years there has been a lot of talk (perhaps too much?) about Spain's “culinary revolution” which took place in the 1990's and beginning of the 2000's, a revolution which should be attributed to the genius of a handful of charismatic chefs. The best known of these are Ferran Adria, Martin Berasategui, Juan Mari Arzak, Pedro Subijana and the Roca brothers (just to name a few!)
There has, however, been very little interest in Scandinavia's sudden emergence at the forefront of the world gastronomic scene. What good can come from these Nordic countries apart from gravelax (salmon marinated in salt and sugar), rakfisk (fermented trout) and whale steak, not forgetting the traditional grilled pork belly served at Christmas?
Yet one has to just look at the figures to discover that, in this part of Europe, something out of the ordinary is taking place. In Norway alone four chefs have carried off the famous Bocuse d'Or prize: Geir Skeie in 2009, Charles Tjessem in 2003, Terje Ness in 1999 and Bent Stansen in 1993; two others received the Silver Bocuse: Tom Victor Gausdal in 2005 and Lars Erik Underthun in 1991; and one Bronze Bocuse: Odd Ivar Solvold in 1997. In 2009 Sweden won second place and Denmark were fourth!
This new generation of Nordic chefs owes everything to one man: the great Norwegian Eyvind Hellstrøm.
This exceptional man, born in 1948 is indeed the man who in the early 90's introduced the Vikings to the Art of French cooking and the finest French produce from la poularde de Bresse aux fromages au lait cru (Chicken from the Bresse with raw milk cheese), to foie gras, truffles and Grand Bordeaux wines.
Eyvind Hellstrøm is considered by Paul Bocuse (who made him Chevalier of the Légion d’honneur in 2007) to be “one of the greatest.” Hellstrøm has managed to make his Bagatelle restaurant in Oslo one of the finest dining experiences in Europe, which is no mean feat. To pull this off he had to carry out the patient work of educating his compatriots, hitherto experts only in snacks and frozen foods.
“When I started at Bagatelle in 1982, Norwegians had no idea they possessed the world's best salmon! They were unaware that the whole world was ready to import their coquilles Saint-Jacques, their halibut, fresh cod, king crab, turbot, langoustines, muscles, not to mention the game, reindeer, venison and snow partridge.”
Through his television programmes and “ranting” in the press, Eyvind Hellstrøm gradually gave Norwegians a taste for fine food. He shook them up, turned around their most stubborn prejudices concerning what good food consists of and encouraged them to open up to the outside world.
Today Norwegians (who are wealthy due to their oil reserves) are amongst the most cultivated and demanding gastronomes. Don't be fooled by their apparent austerity, they have had the “Babette's Feast” experience. In order to live up to their new found love of food, Bagatelle's wine cellar, which Eyvind built himself as a point of principle, contains extremely rare wines such as the mythical 1947 magnum bottled Cheval Blanc.
As far as cuisine is concerned dining at Bagatelle is a very moving experience: purity, freshness, an intensity of flavours, sincerity, precision and a total absence of showing off are Eyvind Hellstrøm's hallmarks. A formula that remains unchanged since 1982.
“The most important thing for me is not the dish but the ingredients, which must be of the best quality and as fresh as possible. Wild salmon or Norwegian scallops, for example, don't need anything more than a little salt and pepper!” His scallop carpaccio with sea urchins or with yuzu fruit, his lobsterwith an orange and dill sauce, his King crab salad, and his wild pigeon with trompettes de la mort mushrooms are some of the most dazzling things we have had this year. Spread the news!
Good places to eat, recommended by Eyvind Hellstrøm and tested by yours truly
Dining in Oslo is not as expensive as is usually made out.
The Theater Cafeen located next to the Hotel Continental in the City centre is a very nice Viennese style brasserie established over 100 years ago. It should be visited for its decor and atmosphere, but the cooking is not bad either. Well made, classical fare such as mushroom risotto and meunière sauce or Ninon sauce.
Set menu at £28, interesting wine menu with champagne Bollinger, Didier Dagueneau's Pouilly Fumé and André Brunel's Châteauneuf du Pape.
The Brasserie Blanche, located near to the Royal Palace to the west of the city centre is also a good place to eat. It serves a bistro style French cuisine. Both the reception and decor are welcoming and the wine list flaunts a very specialised selection of French grand crus: riesling Clos Saint-Hune de Trimbach, château Rayas, Didier Dagueneau's Pur Sang, all at more affordable prices than one finds in France.
Evening set meal at £37.
If you are staying in Oslo, Nodee, opposite the large Frogner Park to the west of the City centre, is along with Bagatelle THE restaurant where one absolutely has to dine.
The cuisine makes you skeptical at first as it seems to try too hard to offer the whole gamut of asian food, offering Chinese, Japanese and Vietnamese specialities. But in fact the chefMan Lung Cheung is a veritable virtuoso and he elaborates a creative cuisine of great purity. The sashimis and sushis are of an admirable delicacy and freshness. As is the stuffed King crab, the shellfish and mushroom soup, the 'a la plancha' grilled tuna, rolled fillet of marinated lamb with spices and a marvellous array of desserts each one more flavoursome than the last. Not to be missed!
Set menus at 46, 70 and 100 pounds.
Bagatelle
Bygdøy Alle 3
0257 Oslo
Tel : 22 12 14 40
Grand menu “Creation” at 1480 NOK (£156)
Restaurant open evenings only.
Theatercafeen
Brasserie Blanche
Josefinesgate, 23 0351 Oslo
Nodee
Middelthunsgate, 25 0368 Oslo
