The Perch of Lake Geneva (Switzerland)

Whether the TGV high-speed train stops off at Lausanne, Montreux or Geneva, one naturally tends to head for the lake, drawn by the docks and the cries of seagulls. It is no use trying to resist, to take a detour - even to the hotel - or hail a cab. The strongest draw is definitely the water, where one may contemplate the white boats, flags flying in the wind, which serve as shuttlebuses transporting their passengers from one shore to another, from one canton to another.

 

This is, indeed, a beautiful lake: peaceful, serene and very Swiss. It has something of a seaside town resort, perhaps Deauville, or maybe the Croisette in Cannes, or Nice’s Promenade des Anglais. Time seems to have stood still here. Those who walk near its shores tend to slow down without really meaning to. The lake makes one want to take one’s time, to have a seat and commune with the swans, to enjoy the sky and to admire the the snow-capped Alps which tower above the French shore mirrored in the blue waters.

 

Time for lunch. One should take a seat in a brasserie – which is called a ‘pinte’ in the country – and instead of accepting the menu proffered by the waiter, ask for fillet of perch, s’il vous plaît, with chips and ‘trois déci’ of Chasselas wine (that is, three decilitres, or around one and a quarter cups). 

 

Chasselas is the perfect choice to accompany filets de perche. It comes from the region of Lavaux known as the ‘Vaudoise Riviera,’ between Montreux and Lausanne. The Lavaux vineyards, cultivated in terraces, belong to UNESCO’s World Heritage list. It is said that the grapes which flourish here have the benefit of three suns: that which shines during the day, that which is hidden in the dry stone walls and warms the vines at night and that which is reflected in the lake.

 

Approximately 150 professional fishermen fish for perch in the lake’s depths. But the ever-increasing demand is greater than their catch can supply. Perch fishing is strictly regulated; the smallest fish (called perchettes) must be released unharmed and fishing nets must be left hanging in the shed during spawning season.

 

Pierre-Brice Lebrun wondered about the fillets of perch said to be ‘from the Lake.’ According to his calculations, ‘around 5 % of the perch eaten around Lake Geneva is actually fished from its waters.’ The Office Fédéral de l'Environnement confirms this estimate.

Fortunately, the perch’s habitat goes beyond the shores of Lake Geneva - there are other Swiss lakes which teem with perch. But even though the people who live on those shores eat far less of it, as it is not their tradition, there still isn’t enough fish to feed all of Lake Geneva’s perch enthusiasts. Most of the perch is, in fact, imported from Poland, Estonia, Russia or Lithuania - but good luck telling the one from the other!