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Restaurant Nathan Outlaw (The Marina Villa Hotel, Cornwall)
| 15-06-2009 By Paul Gilbert Kent-born chef Nathan Outlaw began cooking with his father, also a chef, at the age of 14. The experience proved invaluable, enabling Outlaw to develop his gastronomic skills and gain an insight into the harsh realities of restaurant kitchen life.  © Marina Villa Hotel Outlaw’s first break was at the Intercontinental Hyde Park Corner working under top chef Peter Kronberg. Stints at City Rhodes with Gary Rhodes and Charvot with Eric Charvot followed, before a move to Cornwall and two years working under Rick Stein and Paul Ripley at their Seafood Restaurant in Padstow. Next came a move to the Cotswolds and John Campbell’s Lord of the Manor before a return to Cornwall to open his first restaurant, the Black Pig, in 2003. Within 8 months, and aged just 25, Outlaw had his first Michelin star. A second was to follow at St Ervan Manor, a luxury B&B situated near Padstow, but by 2007 Outlaw was tackling his most ambitious challenge to date, the opening of his signature restaurant, Restaurant Nathan Outlaw, within the beautifully located Marina Villa Hotel in Fowey. Restaurant Nathan Outlaw is a fantastic place to eat. If you like your rooms with a view then be sure to bag a window seat where you can treat yourself to some wonderful coastline scenery and watch the ebb and flow of the Fowey Estuary. But whilst the views are obviously a draw, the real star of this place is the food. Outlaw’s aim is to provide food that is “accessible to all comers” and to avoid “gimmicks and pretensions" and his menu does just that. Simple, contemporary dishes, bursting with flavour and packed to the brim with high-quality seasonal, and often locally sourced, produce. All beautifully presented. “When it comes to writing a menu I start with the flavours and work back,” he explains. “Some are reinterpretations of old favourites whilst others are more challenging and unusual. My hope is that people are willing to explore some of these new flavours and ingredients.”  © Marina Villa Hotel Predictably, this kind of food served in this kind of setting doesn’t come cheap. Starters such as lobster risotto in basil, orange and lobster bisque, pork belly with apple and celeriac and black bream with wild garlic potato dumplings and lemon and olive oil sauce all come in between the £12 and £15 mark. Mains such as beef rump with hazelnut and tarragon served on mushroom pearl barley, turbot with potted shrimp sauce and broad beans and lamb with young garlic, thyme and roast onions will all cost you the wrong side of £25. Don’t be deterred though. This is confident, robust modern British cooking at the top of its game and delivered with huge dollops of swagger and finesse. There’s also an impressive lineup of fresh, modern-looking puds such as rhubarb financier with creamed almonds and rhubarb sorbet, pineapple tart tatin and peanut mousse with banana ice cream and espresso. The less sweet of tooth could be swayed by an excellent choice of British artisan cheeses served with pickled walnut and raisin bread. There’s also the option of a £70 seven course tasting menu, designed by Outlaw himself (£100 with matching wines). Wine is viewed as “an integral part” of the Restaurant Nathan Outlaw dining experience. The list is updated regularly and includes offerings from new and up and coming, as well as classic, producers. Complimenting the kitchen philosophy there is also a big focus on bio-dynamic and organic wines.  Outlaw clearly runs a very tight ship and inspires trust and loyalty in his staff. The vastly experienced team includes pastry and sous chef, Gordon Gray, and sous chef, Chris Simpson, both of whom have worked with Outlaw previously. Gray began his career at the prestigious Gleneagles hotel in the mid-nineties and his impressive CV includes spells with the likes of Nick Nairn and Michael Caines. The Marina Villa marks the pair’s third spell together having previously joined forces at The Vineyard in Stockcross and St Ervan Manor. Sous chef Chris Simpson’s background is equally impressive with eleven years of experience and previous tenures at Anthony’s in Leeds and Martin Wishhart in Edinburgh under his belt. Simpson first worked with Outlaw at The Black Pig and went on to join the Marina Villa team in 2007 where the two men have worked alongside each other ever since. So with a hat trick of Michelin stars already under his belt, not to mention rising two star status for the Marina Villa operation, what’s next for Outlaw? Well, the next port of call will be the 20-bedroom St Enodoc hotel overlooking the Camel Estuary in nearby Rock. Outlaw’s remit is to oversee the launch of a new 65 cover restaurant, Nathan Outlaw Seafood and Grill, that promises a menu of classic British fare “with a leaning towards Cornish seafood and meat dishes including steaks and casseroles”. Head chef at the new venture is Peter Biggs, another former Outlaw associate who previously worked with the Chef at the Black Pig. The Marina Villa HotelEsplanade Fowey Cornwall PL23 1HY T: 01726 833315 F: 01726 832779 Opening Hours 1900 - 2100 (last orders) Fridays & Saturday lunchtime – 12pm – 2pm Different tasting menus will be created for Regatta week, Valentines, Mothering Sunday, Christmas and New Year. Reservations Restaurant closes on Sunday and Monday out of season and on Sunday in season. Due to the restaurant size there is a booking maximum of 6 people for the full a la carte menu. A bespoke tasting menu will be created for parties of 7 or more. |
