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The Winegrowers of La Balagne are ‘Real’ Men!
| 2009-06-22 By Emmanuel Tresmontant With its granite slopes falling sharply to the sea, its villages lost in the mountains and its charismatic winegrowers, the vineyards of the Balagne are little known gems that one should take time to explore.  © E. Tresmontant/ViaMichelin La Balagne is the epitome of all a wine enthusiast could ask for. This region is a combination of everything that motivates and strengthens their enthusiasm - beautiful landscapes, delicious wines produced from native grape varieties, and winegrowers with steely characters! One can also add to this trio of advantages an element of economy: Corsican wines in general, and Balagne in particular, are absolutely excellent value for money. If one buys them locally these wines are VAT free and have a very affordable price of less than 8 or 9 Euros per bottle. Above all, Balagne wines can be distinguished by their uniqueness and character. Originating from traditional grape varieties such as the Sciacarello and the Niellucio, the red wines turn out to be attractively peppered and spicy whilst maintaining a pleasant freshness. As for the white wines, they are produced from one of the most important grape varieties of the Mediterranean region - the Vermentino, also known as “Corsican Malvasia” and “Provencal Rolle”, this grape variety gives wines a colour ranging from golden yellow to pale green. It has a very characteristic nose marked by dominant notes of fruit such as apple and almond. With Balagne the palate of the Vermentino can be slightly perlant (semi-sparkling), yet it is always very fresh and is, in any case, more lively than the palate of Patrimonio which seduces more through its full-bodied roundness. Although it is generally as a young wine, the Balagne Vermentino can be kept for a very long time, as attested by the wines retrieved by Bernard Renucci in a corner of his family cellar, which are dated 1869! “These wines are still very drinkable. They are smooth and of a very high quality with notes of beeswax - a true miracle of nature!” The Balagne vineyards, which are framed within a vast amphitheatre opening out to the sea, have been known since the time of the Romans. The appellation area includes Calvi with its plain and the foothills of Monte Grosso (1941m), covering around 250 hectares. The vines are situated very favourably upon this granitic terrain which enjoys a mountainous and marine temperate climate. Despite each domaine asserting its own style, a special tribute should be paid to the pioneers who brought the Balagne vineyards out of anonymity, such as the Clos Culombu d’Étienne Suzzoni (located at the entrance of the village of Lumio), the Paolini family’s Clos Landry (in Calvi) and also Michel Raoust's Clos Reginu (at Feliceto.) In recent years a number of impassioned winegrowers have once again brought further heart and soul to this marvellous region. For your next holidays I urge you to go and meet them!  © E. Tresmontant/ViaMichelin The passion and discretion of Bernard Renucci The valley of Reginu, which used to be considered the grain basket of Corsica, enjoys an ideal climate and has the advantage of never having been subjected to chemical treatments. Since 1991 Bernard Renucci, a brilliant, precise and meticulous winegrower, has been cultivating his family’s domaine, which today covers 17 hectares of this valley. To put it simply, Bernard produces the finest, most profound red wine of the whole Balagne region. Along with the traditional Corsican grape varieties of Sciacarello and Niellucio, Bernard likes to add Syrahand a little Grenache to give colour and complexity to his wines. His Vignola blend is thus an attractive dark red reinforced with touches of violet. It has an intense nose with notes of blackberry, cherry, blackcurrant and even cocoa. The palate is smooth, rich and spicy. It is a real delight which matches wonderfully with Corsican Agneau de lait (young lamb.) Bernard Renucci’s Vermentino matured on fine lees is also one of the nicest white wines in the whole of this 'Isle of Beauty.' Concentrated yet balanced, its golden colour with green tints is seductive. It has a nose of Corsican scrub which evokes notes of lychee, citrus and apple. Its palate is dense, harmonious and mineral.  © E. Tresmontant/ViaMichelin Pierre Aquaviva – An Ambassador of Corsican Wines Pierre Aquaviva is another of the Balagne’s charismatic winegrowers. This hardened mountaineer enthusiastically defends the identity and the uniqueness of Corsican wines and he has taken it upon himself to promote them in France and abroad, the whole year long. His domaine is situated 8km from Calvi and covers 24 hectares. Every plot of his land, on south-facing, granite slopes, are ploughed and cultivated without using pesticides. Pierre Aquaviva embodies the very best of Corsican traits – generosity and loyalty. His wines are a reflection of his own qualities of being straightforward, pure and expressive! I particularly recommend his white wines matured on fine lees of the Fiumessecu blend, which seduce through their floral aromas and their luxuriant, powerful palate. Pierre Aquaviva has also just started a new blend named Pumonte which comes from a plot of old vines protected from the summer heat by the Bonifatu cirque. It is a dense, complex Vermentino with an attractive freshness that emanates aromas of citrus and exotic fruits.  © E. Tresmontant/ViaMichelin Richard Spurr, the Newcomer The generous winegrowers of the Balagne have a sense of solidarity and have recently helped Richard Spurr in setting up at Clos de l’Ange, near to Clos Landry. This Anglo-Irish oenologist fell in love with the region and very rapidly became integrated into the community, to the extent of acquiring a Corsican accent! Richard speaks very quickly and it is difficult to make out what he says. But never mind, he has a twinkle in his eye and his love for the Balagne is apparent in his generous and powerful wines. This is one to watch - a domaine that can be counted on. Hotel La Villa’s restaurant in Calvi (2 Michelin stars) has made no mistake in already having chosen his excellent Vermentino 2008. AddressesBernard Renucci 20 225 Feliceto Tel: +33 (0)4 95 61 71 08 http://www.domaine-renucci.com/ 9 € for a bottle purchased at the domaine. Pierre Aquaviva Domaine d’Alzipratu 20 214 Zilia Tel: +33 (0)4 95 62 75 47 From 6.80 € to 9.60 € for a bottle purchased at the domaine. Richard Spurr Clos de l’Ange 20 214 Calvi Tel: +33 (0)6 19 85 16 39 9 € for a bottle purchased at the domaine. |
