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L’Angélique (Versailles)
Georges Rouzeau-2009-05-04
Recently awarded a first Michelin star, L’Angélique has a loyal clientele thanks to their unbeatable € 38 fixed-price menu (lunch and dinner) featuring contemporary, refined cuisine.
One is naturally drawn to L’Angélique’s chef, Régis Douysset, simply because he drives a lemon yellow collector’s Citroën 2 CV - the model driven by James Bond in For Your Eyes Only. His sommelier wife, Annette, tools about in an old Renault 4 L.
These two speed demons have been shaking up the Versailles gourmet scene, which is sorely in need of some excitement. At present, the city of Louis XIV sports three stars: two for Gordon Ramsay’s restaurant at the Trianon Palace and one for L’Angélique. The Douyssets’ other restaurant, L’Escarbille (in Meudon), already received its first Michelin star three years ago.
In Versailles, Régis Douysset bought Le Rescator, a bankrupt seafood restaurant which had once been a standard of local gastronomy. Located on a broad, straight avenue which leads to the château, this handsome 17C town house with an original wrought iron balcony has benefitted from a well-deserved makeover. Modern and comfortably upmarket, the discreet new decor is just right: grey panelling, white beams, parquet floors, fashionable chairs...
When?
After a Baroque opera performance at the Chapelle Royale.
Which entree?
Roasted veal sweetbreads, Swiss chard ragout, red wine sauce.
Which dessert?
Rice pudding with exotic fruit and passion fruit sorbet.
Dining partners?
Business associates at lunch; a significant other in the evening; the extended family on Saturday.
The best tables?
203 and 205, upstairs opposite the window.
L’Angélique’s strongest points are their precise classic cuisine and € 38 fixed-price menu (lunch and dinner) - an unbeatable value for the money. The menu, which is frequently modified, follows markets and seasons in order to offer the freshest ingredients at the most reasonable prices. L’Angélique, like L’Escarbille, takes delivery of fresh market produce each morning.
Assisted by his sous-chef, Alix Guiet, who keeps things ticking when he’s away, Régis Douysset is a master of culinary accuracy. In the kitchen he applies the principles of his meticulous cooking guru, Jean-Claude Bourgueil (Im Schiffchen in Düsseldorf), with whom he worked for several years.
Régis Douysset’s cuisine is traditional and without pretension. The names of his dishes echo this simplicity: creamed fresh pea soup, crab rillettes, sautéed scallops, monkfish medallions, cod steak, veal sweetbreads, prime beef, shoulder of lamb, candied pears, moelleux au chocolat, rice pudding. Solid compositions built around a main ingredient, vegetable, sauce or taste. The dishes are beautifully presented, the food is perfectly cooked and the flavours are bold. Impeccable service with no fuss.
Practical information
L’Angélique
27, avenue de Saint-Cloud
78000 Versailles
Tel: 01 30 84 98 85
Open noon to 2 pm and 7.30 pm to 10.30 pm. Closed Sunday and Monday.
L'Escarbille
8, rue de Vélizy
92190 Meudon
Tel: 01 45 34 12 03
