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Set on a leafy corner, right off the Cross Island Parkway, Trattoria Neo is a perfect match for its little enclave. Framed by large wooden doors and windows, the inside is cozy and welcoming with wood ceiling beams, Venetian plaster covering columns and walls, and sconces gently lighting the room. Just as the wrought-iron candelabras recall classic Italy, so does its menu. From the marble bar, expect inventive cocktails to go with arancini di riso, saffron rice balls stuffed with ragù Bolognese; or braciola di maiale, a huge oven-roasted pork chop with an intense vinegared cherry pepper sauce, paired with buttery potatoes. Wednesday is pasta (and live music!) day so insist on the likes of stringhetti, tossed in tomato sauce with fresh basil and Parmesan.