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The dark wooden front sign indicates that Vareli is not your average Columbia University joint. Step inside this multi-level restaurant and wine bar and Morningside Heights seems a world away. In fact, you may feel that you are inside a wine vat, with curved wooden ceilings and a polished copper bar. Authentic Mediterranean wine barrels set for diners and a Japanese rock waterfall add to the intimate mood. Let the well-chosen wine list complement a worthwhile starting selection of cheese and charcuterie; then proceed to an appetizer of flash-fried cauliflower served over tahini, chilies, and sage, drizzled with lemon juice. Finish with the expertly cooked duo of Hudson duck, served with an excellent peach-mint reduction and seasonal vegetables.