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Some people say it's the most over-hyped spot around, yet Mission Chinese Food is as popular as ever. And the craze has even spread to the East Coast, but this original well-worn dining gem remains the same: strangely set within the defunct Lung Shan Restaurant, and decked with a red dragon that looms overhead. Servers move around with brusque efficiency as they present flavor-packed, contemporary interpretations of Chinese dishes like smoky and fatty kung pao pastrami strewn with shaved potato and peanuts; sizzling cumin lamb chili joined with pickled long beans; or a unique dish of wild pepper leaves swirled with tofu ribbons and pumpkin slices dressed in a chili broth. Reservations not accepted, so be prepared to stand around in your skinny jeans.