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Well before Thomas Keller staked his flag in Yountville, local favorite Cindy Pawlcyn was serving luxe "truckstop" fare at her already iconic Mustards. Opened in 1983, this wine country roadhouse still draws the crowds for new American fare (think oak-smoked barbecue ribs) and bargain sips from the list of Too Many Wines. Soak up your favorite California varietal with one of the various daily specials scribbled on the blackboard, or try such old favorites as Dungeness crab cakes or grilled quail accented with herbs and vegetables from the restaurant's own gardens. Venture out for a stroll and you just might encounter the chef. If reservations aren't available at Mustards, pick up one of Pawlcyn's many cookbooks and try your hand at home.