It is clear what all the fuss is about, right from the moment one enters this polished wood veneer sanctum of Chef Danko's revered dining room. Dressed-up occupants in the mood to celebrate are bathed in flattering light and surrounded by a rainforest's worth of orchids. Service is without reproach and displays an uncommon loyalty; diners here experience a level of hospitality usually reserved for luxury hotels. Customizable tastings allow guests to mix and match their own three- to five-course meals from a menu of classic cooking layered with global inspiration. Pan-seared quail salad features a crispy rosemary-scented potato cake, sautéed maitake mushrooms, and wild greens-an eye-catching composition united by a warm pomegranate-sweetened dressing. Intensely crisp soft-shell crabs are even easier to love when nestled in a bed of white polenta scattered with black sesame seeds, enhanced with pickled ginger and zesty lime to cut the richness. Banana tart with rum pastry cream, caramel sauce, and coconut sorbet is a fine choice for dessert, made even sweeter when paired with an after-dinner selection from the outstanding wine list boasting more than 2,000 bottles from around the globe.
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