It may take a little digging to find this place, since there are no signs and you must ascend a steep flight of stairs, but once inside, you'll discover an ambitious Japanese restaurant where the kitchen deserves as much praise as the eight-seat sushi counter. The okimari menu begins with black goma-ae kabocha, then continues with nanbanzuke, a lightly fried and intensely flavorful fish. A selection of skillful sashimi and sushi is always changing. Hojicha pudding rounds out the meal.