Arnaud Jourdan (stints at La Chassagnette and Les Maisons Rabanel) has seamlessly taken over the reins of this bistro, which continues to dish up no-nonsense, market-fresh cooking depicted by lashings of generosity and nostalgic flavours. A few examples include beef tongue with gribiche sauce; confit shoulder of lamb paired with sautéed courgettes and the daringly decadent chocolate, black olive and fleur de sel mousse. Now add a buzzy laid-back vibe and, in keeping with its namesake (slang for "wine"), a fine selection of natural and biodynamic wines at sensible prices, and voilà!