There’s nothing more reassuring than walking into a restaurant and being instantly hit with the sound of contented customers. But however busy this North Wharf spot gets, there’s a well-oiled service team on hand and they cope effortlessly well. The owner pays homage to his Italian-American roots, so start with some meatballs – the crayfish versions are very good. Pasta is homemade and there’s plenty of wood-fired bistecca. Add in an almost exclusively Italian wine list and you have all the ingredients for a fun time.