Bang in the middle of the seaside resort, this spruce, modern edifice is reminiscent of Sardinia, both in terms of the décor and the succulent seasonal food. The menu, which changes monthly, is liberally strewn with local and Sardinian ingredients. Examples include rigatoni of Gragnano with locally-fished squid stew or seada, a typical Sardinian dessert: a sort of dumpling stuffed with lemon-spiked pecorino which is then deep fried and drizzled in Sardinian honey. The chef’s radiant wife cheerfully and professionally manages the front of house. Concise wine list of mainly Italian and local tipples.