Unsurprisingly sporting a black-and-green colour scheme, this bijou neighbourhood restaurant splits diners between high-topped tables and a couple of counter seats in front of the open kitchen. The short, sensibly priced tasting menu moves with the seasons, using prime ingredients to deliver layers of texture and flavour in modern dishes such as high-quality, lightly blow-torched chalk stream trout with brown butter espuma and salty capers to cut the richness. All guests are served at the same time and most go for the wine pairings.