When the garage doors are up, doors and windows wide open, and the breeze blowing right through, this oyster bar has few equals. Naturally, the seafood is well-sourced at what once was a filling station. But what draws us in again and again are the small culinary twists that go a long way. Take the fried catfish, served on a sesame seed bun slathered in mayo on one side and hot sauce on the other. Marinated in hot sauce, brined in buttermilk, and seasoned with Old Bay, the fried chicken is the juiciest bird we’ve had yet. Be sure to order a side of their chilled black-eyed pea salad. A curated list of top-tier grower Champagnes is an unexpected addition.