This Lincoln Square boîte has always blended in with its humble surrounds, but enthusiasts know that it’s the inside that counts and where culinary excellence has long thrived. In full view of the dining room, Chef Bradyn Kawcak and his team work quietly and seamlessly. This kitchen delivers a carefully calibrated tasting menu supported by nearby farms and packed with flavor and originality. The meal may begin with a globally inspired set of refined comforting classic like pupusas with blue corn and cochinita pibil and curtido, smoked white fish dip and carrot-miso dumplings made with rutabaga wrappers. A complex and earthy miso soup may be next, followed by house-made buckwheat noodles with vegetables tossed with a glossy, luscious sauce with a layered umami.