Its name comes from an Old English word for ‘journey’, but there is something decidedly contemporary about this centrally located restaurant – from the airy, pared-back interior to the on-trend open kitchen and terse menu descriptions. An antique stained-glass window adds character and makes a fine backdrop for the chefs as they show their talent across colourful, precisely executed dishes that utilise punchy flavours like Sichuan pepper, onion ketchup and an intense duck jus.