A big red door indicates that you have arrived at this rustic warehouse conversion, in which the chefs practise a culinary ethos that centres around the local, the seasonal and letting the produce speak for itself. It takes a lot of skill and no little ability to take just a few prime ingredients and fashion dishes that are so well defined and satisfying, and the kitchen here pulls it off with aplomb. You can warm yourself by the stove in winter or sit in the walled courtyard in the summer. The lovely service team are on the ball and the music’s great too.