Between Nîmes and Arles, in grounds planted with hundred-year-old cedars, Michel Kayser does what he does best: cooking from the heart to enhance the ingredient, while harnessing his extensive technical skill in a bid to trigger the emotions of good food lovers. There are few chefs who celebrate the Mediterranean with such precision, aplomb or enthusiasm: red mullet grilled under a salamander, ravioles with a tapenade of French olives (picholines), jus of roasted fish bones; Camargue Angus beef seasoned with fragrant marrow bone, a composition of umbellifers jazzed up with anchovies and a ‘Land of Camargue’ sauce. All the side dishes and other edible delicacies (like the bread made with red mullet scales – just the ticket to joyfully mop up the big-boned jus in the fashion of a bouillabaisse rouille) are specifically designed to underscore and enhance the main ingredient (which is used from top to tail, like chaud-froid quail). Utterly free of gadgets and gimmicks, everything tastes of something in this establishment devoted to flavour.