Born and bred in Harderwijk, Yornie van Dijk has taken over the restaurant where he once worked under Rik Jansma and made it his own. The former St Agnes Chapel provides a striking setting, with Scandinavian minimalism set against exposed brick walls and personalised drawings. This is a welcoming place with a youthful energy and an open kitchen that draws the eye. Van Dijk has mastered the nuances of contemporary cuisine, striking a measured balance between acidity and spice. He is a proponent of Nordic Cuisine, putting his own twist on its clean, pure approach with influences from around the world. The core ingredient takes the lead here and is very often locally sourced, with vegetables and herbs playing a defining role. For example, wonderfully succulent sweetbreads are elevated by a fermented white asparagus vinaigrette with chive oil and a veal jus given extra depth by rye miso. Dry-aged North Sea turbot is another highlight: the fillets are served alongside the belly, which is made into a small sausage with yuzu kosho, enhanced by an umami-rich chilli paste and a rich beurre blanc. This is finely judged cooking with an increasingly distinctive style. The wealth of choice – with both set menus and à la carte options – only adds to the pleasure.