Cross the moat, enter the medieval stronghold and look for the building with the sloping wall. It is a charming introduction to De Voorburcht. The historic setting takes on a fresh, contemporary feel inside, and, on warm days, the sheltered courtyard terrace enclosed by old stone walls and greenery is not to be missed. The chef's modern French cooking makes subtle yet highly effective use of seasonings from further afield. On a summer evening, for example, he might serve hamachi tartare dressed with lime alongside hamachi sashimi, avocado cream, oyster leaf and a delicate vinaigrette of cucumber, white celery and green chilli. Choosing between the set menu and the à la carte selection may prove difficult. At De Voorburcht, classical craftsmanship takes on a contemporary edge.