Tucked away off Richmond Avenue this restaurant, housed in a 1920s white stucco bungalow and managed by some of the most personable staff in the city, cooks with both flair and familiarity. Seafood is a must, as in fresh razor clams or the signature char-grilled octopus with pommes purée. Chef Luis Roger knows his way around land, too, and his Iberian suckling pig arrives with a crackling crust, meltingly tender meat in a rich red wine sauce. Save room for dessert, especially the tarta de Santiago with zingy lemon marmalade.  The beverage selection is intriguing, featuring an all-Spanish wine list and a section dedicated to gin and tonics. Owner Ignacio Torras's private art collection (including Pablo Picasso's owl jugs) is yet another charming touch.