There are few more joyously colourful and lavishly decorated restaurants than Mourad Mazouz and Pierre Gagnaire’s 18th Century house of fun. Everything comes with a sense of theatre, from the unfailingly attentive service to Gagnaire’s signature multi-dish cooking. Here, an expertly poached fillet of Cornish sea bass will not suffice; it must be beautifully complemented by a sea bass sahimi, a mussel bavaroise with parmesan tuile, and a tema artichoke with Oscietra caviar. Each element is always exceptionally composed and the original combinations brilliantly conceived.