Best of luck to anyone hoping to score a coveted seat at the buzziest restaurant in town. Online reservations disappear in a flash, and early birds line up just before doors open. Once home to a storied pub, this veritable hit exudes a members-only charm in a vintage space where banquettes, side rooms and a long bar up front hum with energy.The food offers broad appeal. Endive dressed in a creamy Caesar is one of the best salads in the city, while blood sausage with fried hen’s egg or an off-menu shell pasta tossed in vodka sauce offer hearty satisfaction. Keeping this crowd moving is a talented bar that manages to stay on track against a rush that never lets up. Is it time for dessert yet? The sheep’s milk cheesecake is as light as air.