ViaMichelin
Sustànza
Location picture
Michelin Guide
Creative
The Michelin Guide's review
Within the Galleria Principe di Napoli, entry is through the nineteenth-century café chantant ScottoJonno, a space that once housed the municipal treasury and, following extensive restoration, regained its splendor with a 2023 reopening. From here, an elevator ascends to the restaurant’s Liberty-style dining rooms, steeped in an atmosphere redolent of history and refinement. A brief welcome in the salon, amid soft lighting and period details, precedes the experience at generously sized tables, where Marco Ambrosino’s cuisine reveals itself as bold and personal: complex dishes, vibrant with modernity, drawing on Mediterranean and North African traditions and ingredients, enriched by fermentations and touches of live embers. Intense flavors, harmonious contrasts, and spiced aromas speak of a “Mediterranean creolity” that will surprise those seeking to venture beyond more familiar gastronomic territory.
Location
Galleria Principe di Napoli 13
80135 Naples