Situated in a quiet residential district, Sushi Sanshin is only open at lunchtime. The naturally lit interior presents an austere charm. The chef is schooled in the old ways of sushi-making, but weaves in a few tricks of his own. For example, the simmered clam nigiri is carefully prepared with precise knife work and finished with a hint of yuzu. The tamagoyaki, placed on top of the rice like a horse's saddle, conceals a touch of oboro within. Norimaki made with herbs to evoke vegetable flavours is a speciality found only here. Pursuit of the new, tempered by respect for the classics.