This far-from-sterile space might even be described as dramatic, given its arched wood panels, dark charcoal tiles, soft pendant lights and backlit wall of wine. A ladder running across completes the effect. Locally sourced produce, meat from regenerative ranches and responsibly caught seafood are the foundation of the impressive, hyperseasonal cuisine produced here. Menus dance to the seasons, unveiling such passionate and ingenious dishes as a spring garlic velouté with Livermore olive oil, and half a head of za'atar-roasted Romanesco with green tahini and pine nuts. The blueberry cheesecake sundae with cream cheese mousse and cinnamon-graham cracker crumble makes for a delightful ending.