A change of management in January 2026 brought with it a new hand in the kitchen, without however altering the identity of Gainn, open since 2007 and a long-standing and dependable ambassador of Korean gastronomic culture. The cooking is lively and flavoursome, composed of colourful dishes revolving around rice, restorative soups, meat and fish, with generous space given to vegetables, soya and a well-judged balance between sweet-sour and spicy notes. The approach is avowedly convivial: generous portions and preparations conceived to be shared at the centre of the table. A single dessert features on the menu: those with a sweet tooth would do well to bear this in mind.