Routier is a welcoming neighborhood spot serving its own take on French bistro fare, featuring a distinct Californian accent. Chef/owner JP Carmona's casual-meets-sophisticated approach can be seen in dishes like a hot-and-cold composition of crisp, buttery potato pavé topped with sweet Dungeness crab in an herby, lemony mayonnaise, or tender pork cheeks nestled on a bed of creamy lentils, topped with a salad of apples and mustard greens. Quality produce and satisfyingly rustic cooking are hallmarks year-round. Sweets are furnished by celebrated next-door neighbor, B. Patisserie, so it should go without saying, save room for dessert.