At the end of a remote road on the Col de Lizarrieta, a mountain pass on the French-Spanish border, this typical Basque inn has a chequered history, including – legend has it – a stint as a smugglers' hideout. Now, thanks to chef Rémy Le Charpentier and partner Mikela Luro, the place is definitively on the up. Local produce, herbs, condiments and mushrooms (picked by the chef) make for a delightful and flavoursome fiesta in dishes pepped up by creative touches. Last but not least, the restaurant's terrace affords a lovely view.