An inn has stood here since 1642 and The Sportsman’s reputation continues to bring diners from across the country to this windswept spot by the sea wall. The Thames Estuary provides wonderfully fresh fish and oysters, and the adjacent marshes, woods and soils provide meat, game and vegetables. The daily changing menu is displayed on blackboards next to the bar and, while the place has a comfortingly traditional feel, the dishes mix old favourites (like pot-roast pork loin) with newer ideas. The cooking is assured and satisfying, with seamless flavour combinations and an understated level of complexity.