This long-standing neighbourhood noodle shop feels airy and bright. The noodles are tossed in scallion oil or served in broth – the former being the more popular style – and come with a heap of fried spring onions. Additional toppings include the old-Shanghai favourite of briny-sweet eel with springy meat, and, whichever garnish you choose, the owner adds a spoonful of spicy ground pork (on the house). Come early to beat the peak-time queues.