Previously a church, Irenekerk (1891) is now a restaurant in which design reigns supreme, with a stylish blend of soft and raw materials. The new timber trusses draw the eye upward in this space with rugged, blackened walls. Downstairs, the chef's table encircles the completely open kitchen, giving diners a full view of the team at work; on the upper floor, there is a magnificent bar built in the shape of an organ. This place is all the more exceptional for the way Sven Nijenhuis draws on French cooking techniques while embracing more innovative methods. His instinct for premium ingredients, precisely judged seasonings and intensely flavoured sauces set him apart. He likes to showcase the star ingredient with his own take on beurre blanc. By adding saffron, chive oil and harissa, for example, he lends further nuance to slow-cooked monkfish and tomato in various textures. Ambrosia ('Ambrozijn') for the discerning palate, indeed.