A sweeping view over the valley and the Ardèche hillsides, a beautiful timber structure, chestnut wood tables and an indoor herb garden - the stage is set at La bòria, which means ‘small Cévennes farm’ in the Ardèche dialect. Assisted by a high-flying team whose wholehearted commitment to the house ethos is beyond doubt, chef Florian Descours pays tribute to his rural roots as he delicately works with premium, local produce: beef from Privas, pork from Beaulieu, snails from the Eyrieux valley and trout from Vercors). A treat from start to finish from the cèpe pie on the Ardèche platter with garden sorrel and the Vercors zander, matelote sauce and marinated girolle mushrooms to the locally grown peaches with sage from the garden and Areilladou faisselle cheese. Hard to beat!