You can’t miss this establishment with its eye-catching orange façade. The fashionable characterful interior (vintage frescoes, black and white tiles) is elegantly lit. A seasoned couple is at the helm, backed up by slick service and underpinned by a mouthwatering classic score. You may sample brains served with a tangy gribiche sauce or eels au vert in sorrel with a spicy sauce, unless you wouldn’t prefer ling (the cod family) cooked on the skin with Savoie cabbage and bacon and flanked by mashed potato and a light buttery sauce.