Koh Ker is the "dissident" capital, built in the 10C by a member of Angkor's (later Jayavarman IV) reigning family in the north of the country. The town then knew a brief (albeit only 16 years) but glorious heyday. Some forty or so temples spread over a 35km²/22mi² area are now accessible following the region's de-mining, including a surprising pyramid-like structure. Dedicated to Shiva, the city is littered with lingam, the emblem of the Hindu divinity.