Often considered to be the gateway to the Amazon, this well-preserved department is one of Colombia's best-kept secrets. Nestling between the Cordillera Oriental and the Amazon basin, this remote, mossy area has long been one of Farc's dangerous strongholds and a haven for a wide range of more or less legal trafficking (rubber, wood, marijuana, coca). Since the peace agreement in 2016, this little green paradise has been opening up to the world and focusing on responsible tourism.