Agios Achilios, a little island off the shore of Small Prespa, set behind a forest of reeds, is a refuge for colonies of birds. On the shore, the old stone and cob houses of a forgotten and slightly melancholy village huddle at the end of the long, floating footbridge that replaces boats. As you walk around the island, you discover a lovely panoramic view over the lake and the vestiges of its past, most notably the 11C Agios Achilios basilica. Timeless.